Articles by Virginie Boone
An arranged marriage between vodka and tomato juice, infinitely customizable with an assortment of stalk-like accoutrements, the Bloody Mary is thought to have been created shortly after World War I. An unknown American bartender in Paris usually gets the credit for creatively availing himself of some of the first tins of tomato juice imported from the United States.
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The original recipe did not contain booze. Bartender Fernand Petiot at The St. Regis New York’s King Cole Bar in 1934 added vodka to tomato juice and came up with the name. It was apparently inspired by a bar regular named Mary, left waiting for her man while nursing one of Petiot’s tomato cocktails. Bar Mary’s plight was likened to that of England’s Queen Mary I, and thus the Bloody Mary was born.
The name was considered a little racy, so Petiot improvised a new version of the Bloody Mary with gin and called it a Red Snapper. But once Smirnoff vodka took America by storm in the 1960s, making vodka more mainstream, the Bloody Mary roared again.
It has a reputation as a hangover remedy, and the Bloody Mary is abidingly good after a big night out thanks to the richness of the tomato juice, which also provides acidity. Spice comes from the traditional Tabasco, though some bartenders prefer Louisiana hot sauce, horseradish or other concoctions of their own.
Themes on the classic Bloody Mary abound, and in honor of its history, each St. Regis hotel has its own signature Bloody Mary. The luxurious Lanesborough Hotel in London, part of the St. Regis family, makes one with fresh yellow tomato juice and rosemary-infused vodka. In Kauai, the Aloha Mary is a blend of organic Hawaiian vodka, Clamato juice, wasabi, Sriracha and local guava wood-smoked sea salt, garnished with sea asparagus. For this week’s recipe, master barman Tony Abou-Ganim provides a very spicy take on the old classic, the Bloody Bull, thought to have originated in New Orleans.
Courtesy Tony Abou-Ganim, “Vodka Distilled”
2 ounces vodka, preferably one made from rye or mixed grain
2 ounces tomato juice
2 ounces beef bouillon
½ ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 dashes Worcestershire sauce
2 dashes Tabasco sauce
Pinch of kosher salt
Pinch of coarsely ground black pepper
1. Place all ingredients into a mixing glass.
2. Add ice and roll contents between mixing glass and shaker tin until well mixed.
3. Strain into an ice-filled Collins glass.
4. Garnish with a wedge of lemon.
Top photo: The Bloody Bull. Credit: The Lanesborough Hotel, London
Americans have always loved rum, but it tends to be pigeonholed as a party drink, the base for daiquiris and Mai Tais but not serious sipping. That’s changing as better rums come out to compete with the mega-brands we know so well, and rhum agricole and cachaça, two other sugarcane-based spirits, get in on the game.
Launched in 2012 by bar/lounge mogul Rande Gerber and Roberto Serrallés of Serrallés Distillery in Puerto Rico, Caliche has taken off in a big way, selling 10,000 cases in its first year. Named for limestone found around the distillery, Caliche is a crystal-clear white rum, smooth and slightly sweet in vanilla and caramel, with hints of spice. Unlike most white rums, it’s aged much like a sherry, with four layers of separately aged rums blended into one. Serrallés recommends that Caliche be sipped over ice with a slice of lime or mixed into classic rum cocktails, its age lending more complexity to even a simple mojito or Cali Libre (rum, Coke, cream and lime wedge).
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Penny Blue Mauritian Rum
A single-estate, small-batch rum aged in cognac, bourbon and whisky casks, Penny Blue is a new addition to the lineup from Medine Distillery, which also has produced the popular Pink Pigeon rum since 1926. For Pink Pigeon, Medine distills sugarcane and then infuses it with hand-pollinated, handpicked bourbon vanilla from nearby rainforests, later adding orange peel for freshness. Penny Blue is the aged version, named for the world’s rarest stamp — the 1847 “Penny Blue” from Mauritius, which sold for $1.4 million at auction in 1994.
The most amazing thing about Phraya — other than the gorgeous gold adorning the bottle — is that it comes from Thailand, not a place usually associated with rum. Phraya alone may change that. It is an exceptional spirit, based on sugarcane from Nakhon Pathom province, in the center of the country. Aged in fired oak barrels for seven to 12 years, the rum is dark and exotically spicy, like Thai cuisine, rich in vanilla, honey and coconut and just right for sipping all night long.
Often called Brazilian rum, cachaça is made from sugarcane juice rather than molasses, using hand-cut sugarcane that is then fermented and distilled without additives, meaning that it’s usually pretty clear. It’s become a hot ticket in the United States, a smooth drink with the kind of herbal and botanical nuances that entice lovers of gin. It can also be aged, two to three years typically, bringing out the spirit’s darker, butternut squash and plantain notes. Aged cachaças are often enjoyed neat or as a chilled shot; the unaged go better in mixed drinks like the classic caipirinha below.
St. George California Agricole Sugarcane Rum
Made entirely from rare California-grown sugarcane, St. George’s agricole rum is akin to a sugarcane wine or eau-de-vie because of the way it is fermented. With a base of fresh sugarcane juice, it’s grassy, earthy and less sweet than rums made from molasses.
Sagatiba Pura Caipirinha
Courtesy of Campari America
Half a fresh lime, cut into wedges
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
2½ ounces Sagatiba Pura or other cachaça
1. Squeeze and drop lime wedges into a rocks glass.
2. Add sugar and muddle.
3. Add cachaça, fill with ice cubes and stir.
You can get creative and replace lime with any fresh fruit for a unique twist on the classic caipirinha.
Top photo: Sagatiba Pura Caipirinha. Credit: Courtesy of Campari America
Your backyard garden is a treasure trove of inspiration for creative cocktails that don’t take hours of infusing or scouring for obscure ingredients known last to pre-Prohibition times.
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The Royalton’s drinks include the Down and Dirty Rosie, a mix of rosemary-infused Absolut vodka, spicy pickle brine and sriracha bitters served in a coupe and garnished with a house-pickled cornichon.
To get started you need only a few items — fresh fruit, herbs, limes, a muddler and Cointreau, a fantastic summer alternative to rum or vodka. Cointreau works well as a base spirit for your garden cocktails, as it adds a balanced amount of sweetness and its natural orange flavor is a smooth complement to the fruits and herbs found in your summer garden.
Cointreau cocktail and spirits expert Kyle Ford has many other ideas for what to do with the elixir, including the Cucumber-Mint Rickey featured below.
Courtesy of Kyle Ford, Ford Mixology Lab
2 ounces Cointreau
1 ounce fresh lime juice
3 to 4 ounces club soda
4 slices cucumber
5 mint leaves, plus a sprig for garnish
1. Muddle 3 slices of cucumber and the mint leaves in the bottom of a highball glass.
2. Add the remaining ingredients with ice.
3. Stir briefly.
4. Garnish with a slice of cucumber and mint sprig.
Top photo: Cucumber-Mint Rickey. Courtesy of Couintreau
Hawaii has always had a cocktail culture — as evidenced by such drinks like the Mai Tai, Piña Colada and Blue Hawaiian — but one based not as much on quality as on packing a colorful and potent punch.
To many mainlanders, that’s because Hawaii is for them vacationland, a place to enjoy the mildly tropical weather and have drinks served in coconut shells with a tiny umbrella. It’s an image of Hawaii that dates to when Elvis was alive, thin and young.
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Ocean Organic Vodka is one of them, a multigenerational family-run, 80-acre farm and distillery on Maui making vodka out of sugarcane.
Kyle and Diana Smith and their kids Shay and Sye were looking for a way to bring sustainable agriculture to Hawaii and make a non-perishable product. Cocktail aficionados who love to experiment, they settled on vodka, the base of their favorite martinis and more.
To make the vodka, they source seawater that originates 3,000 feet below Hawaii’s Big Island and surfaces near the Kona Coast. High in potassium, calcium and magnesium, the water is then purified and desalinated through reverse osmosis and mixed with fermented sugar cane that they grow.
The result is a crisp, clean-drinking spirit subtle in high-toned citrus notes. Open for tours, Ocean Vodka plans to expand into making rum and whiskeys in the coming years.
Haleakala Distillers is also on Maui, a craft rum distillery run by Jim and Leslie Sargent that makes dark rum, gold rum, 155-proof “Extreme” rum, pineapple-flavored rum and Okolehao. That’s a spirit made from ti root, a Hawaiian herb that Sargent says reminds some people of amaretto, and it goes into a drink called Leilani’s Tsunami, blended with passionfruit, orange, guava and lime juices and Sprite over ice.
A few ‘back’ stories on Hawaiian spirits
Father-son team Maui Distillers produce Old Lahaina Rum in an old sugar mill in the town of Paia. Driven by frustration over the fact that most “Hawaiian” rums were made on the mainland, they were able to source a special molasses from Maui’s Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar, the last operating sugar plantation in Hawaii. Maui Distillers launched in 2004, becoming the first distillery on Maui in 20 years, making dark, silver and gold rums.
Haliimaile Distilling Company is another Maui vodka maker, producing small batches from extra-sweet Maui pineapples, while Maui Brewing founder Garrett Marrero is expanding his brewery in the central part of Maui to soon distill bourbon and spirits based on local breadfruit.
And there’s Kauai, where it is believed Captain James Cook was accompanied by barrels of rum when he first made landfall in 1778. It is the home of Koloa Rum Company, the first and only licensed distillery on the island. Koloa Rum was named for a once-vibrant sugar plantation and mill. Now it is growing its own sugarcane and experimenting with using fresh-pressed cane juice instead of processed sugar. Koloa is devoted to single-batch white, gold, dark and spice rums; its spice rum is rated highly by F. Paul Pacult’s “Spirit Journal” and others. Koloa runs a tasting room and company store from its historic Kilohana Plantation location.
Courtesy of Ocean Vodka
2 ounces vodka (for example, Ocean Vodka)
3 ounces tomato juice
½ ounces fresh lemon juice
3 dashes Worcestershire Sauce
2 drops Tabasco
1. Pour ingredients into shaker over ice.
2. Shake vigorously and pour in a tall glass.
3. Salt and pepper to taste, garnish with fresh vegetables.
Top photo: Aloha Mary. Credit: Jessica Pearl
Everybody loves strawberries, to eat or even to drink. And their appeal in cocktails goes beyond the ever-popular strawberry margarita.
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Prospect sources strawberries from Dirty Girl Farms, a 40-acre, certified organic farm near the town of Santa Cruz, for several of its dishes. In fact, it was the restaurant’s chef who reached out to see if Affrunti might like some too.
Affrunti experiments with other seasonal ingredients and spirits to come up with strawberry-based cocktails.
“With a strawberry margarita, drinkers may have only one thing on their mind, but we want to balance the sweetness out a little by using simple syrup instead of triple sec, and giving it a bit of spice.”
The Road to Rosarito is the result: a crisp, clean, approachable drink that packs just the slightest punch, thanks to the spice adorning the rim.
Road to Rosarito
Courtesy Davin Affrunti, Prospect, San Francisco
For the garnish:
Ground dehydrated strawberries
Tajín chili (a seasoning from Mexico comprised traditionally of Mexican chilies, salt and lime)
For the cocktail:
2 ounces 100% agave silver (blanco) tequila
½ ounce simple syrup
1 ounce fresh strawberry juice (preferably from Dirty Girl strawberries)
1 fresh strawberry
1. Blend equal parts crushed and ground dehydrated strawberry, salt, sugar and Tajín chili. Wet the rim of a rock or old-fashioned glass and dip into the chili-salt-strawberry mix.
2. Shake and double-strain the tequila, simple syrup and strawberry juice into the glass.
3. Add a strawberry for garnish on the rim.
Top photo: Road to Rosarito cocktail. Credit: Courtesy of Prospect restaurant
Sangria is a simple concoction of fruit, sugar, water and wine and a staple in sunny, tapas-minded Spain. Grown-up fruit punch, it’s refreshing and versatile, taking on more savory lemon and lime tones if that’s the fruit you choose, or slightly sweet if peaches are your preference.
But if you can’t be bothered to make your own, increasingly bars are making inventive versions, and good bottled versions abound.
Eppa SupraFruta is a bottled sangria, available in both red and white versions, made from organically grown Mendocino County wine grapes.
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Slices Sangria is the new creation of Mike Kenton, the founder of OFFbeat Brands. Kenton spent much of his career at Codorniu in Spain, where he fell in love with the traditional drink.
He uses wine made from Spanish grape varieties such as Tempranillo and Verdejo, blended with fruit juices such as orange, lime and blackberry (for the red); or lime, lemon and pineapple (for the white).
“Sangria has been on my family’s dining table for as long as I can remember,” said Slices’ Spanish winemaker, Miguel Gúrpide.
Gurpide also makes a sangria rosé (the fruit used includes lime, lemon and strawberry) and two sparkling sangrias, one rosé and one white.
Relatively light in alcohol (usually under 9% alcohol by volume), sangria is an easygoing cocktail to make for one or for a crowd, doused in club soda or given a couple of cubes of ice.
Courtesy Eppa Sangria
2 to 3 cardamom pods
½ ounce lemon juice
½ ounce simple syrup
1 ounce fresh pineapple juice
2 ounces Eppa SupaFruta Sangria
Pineapple leaf, for garnish
1. In a tin, muddle the cardamom pods.
2. Add the rest of the ingredients.
3. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds.
4. Double strain over ice in a wine glass.
5. Garnish with a pineapple leaf.
Courtesy Tara and Les Goodman, Adafina Culinary
2 onions, Spanish or sweet, sliced ⅛-inch thick
6 to 7 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, sliced into ¼-inch rounds
2 cups Spanish olive oil
6 large farm eggs
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
1. Place the onions and potatoes in a medium mixing bowl, and toss with a couple pinches of kosher salt.
2. Place a 10- to 12-inch nonstick pan over medium-high flame, adding the onions and potatoes.
3. Pour in the olive oil and stir to coat.
4. When oil begins to bubble, reduce heat to medium-low and cook, turning frequently, until potatoes are fork-tender but not browned, about 15 to 20 minutes.
5. Remove pan from heat and strain the oil from the onions and potatoes.
6. Set aside oil and reserve for another use.
7. Cool onions and potatoes to room temperature, and adjust for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed.
8. Beat the eggs and add them to the cooled potato mixture.
9. Return pan to medium heat and stir the tortilla mixture as it cooks until eggs are slightly set.
10. Spread mixture out evenly and reduce heat to medium-low.
11. Cook until bottom is golden brown and eggs are set, about 10 to 12 minutes (you can place pan under the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes if needed to set the top).
12. Remove pan from heat and let cool for 10 to 15 minutes.
13. Place a plate face down over the pan and flip tortilla over — bottom side up. Let cool for a half hour or so, and slice into wedges.
14. Serve with Spanish pimenton (paprika) aioli, crunchy sea salt, and a glass of chilled sangria — or a sangria cocktail.
Top photo: Sangria. Credit: iStockphoto
Cinco de Mayo is a pretty straightforward holiday — no gifts, no elaborate rituals — but that doesn’t mean you have to succumb to the same old margarita. Instead, try a couple of variations with festive flair.
The first combines the standard one-two punch of tequila and Cointreau, plus helpings of lime juice and sugar syrup. But it provides a jolt to the tongue with the addition of muddled jalapeño. (Unless you like your heat register set to high, remove the seeds.)
The second is closer to the traditional: tequila, lime juice and Cointreau, with a clever combination of lemon and lime juice mixed with sugar to taste. The addition of salt around the rim and ice make it the perfect drink to enjoy poolside or at the beach, a tangy elixir of savory and sweet.
Created by Las Ventanas al Paraiso, a Rosewood Resort in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
1 muddled jalapeno, seeds removed
1½ ounces tequila
¾ ounce Cointreau
1 ounce lime juice
¾ ounce sugar syrup
Lime slices to garnish
1. Muddle the jalapeno.
2. In a margarita glass rimmed with salt and filled with ice, add muddled jalapeno, tequila, Cointreau, lime juice and sugar syrup.
3. Garnish with a fresh slice of lime.
Silver Coin Margarita
Created by Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi in Santa Fe, New Mexico
1½ ounces tequila, preferably El Tesero Platinum
½ ounce Cointreau
2½ ounces fresh lime, lemon and sugar mix
Lime slices to garnish
1. Combine fresh lime and lemon juice with sugar to taste.
2. In a rocks glass rimmed with salt and filled with ice, add the Tequila, Cointreau and lime/lemon/sugar mix.
3. Garnish with a fresh slice or two of lime.
Top photo: Silver Coin margaritas. Credit: Courtesy of Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi in Santa Fe
There are many opinions about what to drink when eating a dish laced with vinegar, from Lambrusco with Balsamic to Muscadet with a cider vinegar mignonette to accentuate raw oysters. But using vinegar in a drink is all the rage right now, as the fermentation craze extends to mixology.
Chefs and bartenders are increasingly turning to vinegar, even making their own, to add another level of flavor to their drinks. They might barrel-age certain cocktails, essentially fermenting them twice.
“Vinegar is another flavor dimension to play with,” said Liz Grossman, the managing editor of Plate magazine, which devoted its entire winter issue to the subject of fermentation, including cocktails. “It adds a creaminess.”
Drinking vinegar spans styles
Cleveland-based chef Jonathon Sawyer of Greenhouse Tavern makes his own vinegar to go into barrel-aged cocktails; Andy Ricker in Portland, Ore., founder of the popular Pok Pok restaurant, came back from a trip to Thailand a few years ago inspired to mix tartly sweet vinegars with club soda, which he considers an ideal pairing for spicy Asian food.
Ricker sells a line of drinking vinegars in apple, honey, tamarind, pineapple and other flavors called Som Drinking Vinegar (pokpoksom.com). Only organic cane sugar and natural flavoring are added to the natural vinegar; he recommends a 4:1 ratio of soda water to vinegar to help cut the acidity of the honey and apple varieties in particular, which tend to taste less sweet than some of the others.
The notion is not that far off from the idea of shrubs, drinking vinegars made by macerating fruit in vinegar, then cooking it with sugar or honey.
Bartender Carlo Splendorini, who heads the Michael Mina Group of restaurants, prefers to work with balsamic vinegar, finding that the warm flavors of these vinegars from Modena bring depth, nuance and a hint of sweetness to his cocktails. Here is one of his spring-inspired creations.
Created by Carlo Splendorini, Mina Group
1 sugar cube soaked in good quality balsamic vinegar
½ ounce rum
Orange peel for garnish
1. Place the sugar cube at the bottom of a Champagne flute.
2. Add the rum and slowly top with Champagne.
3. Garnish with a twist of orange peel.
Top photo: Spring Sparkle cocktail. Credit: Courtesy of Mina Group