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Charles Perry

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Sylmar, California

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Charles Perry is a former rock and roll journalist (staff writer at Rolling Stonein the 1970s) who suavely transitioned into food writing in the 1980s. During his 18 years at the Los Angeles Times’ award-winning Food section he was twice a finalist for a James Beard award. He is a world-renowned food historian who has been cited in books in seven languages, and he is a major contributor to the “Oxford Companion to Food,” a two-term trustee of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery and president and co-founder of the Culinary Historians of Southern California.

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How Potato Kebabs Can Make Roasted Spuds Exotic Image

They like their shish kebab in the Caucasus. The Azerbaijanis even make a potato version. It’s not really that exotic — just a fancier way of making roasted potatoes, really — but it is delicious, looks cool and might help vegetarians feel less like wallflowers at the barbecue.

The idea is simple. String small potatoes on skewers and grill until nicely browned. To serve, sprinkle with salt, red pepper, green onions and melted butter. It’s the sort of thing that is quite convenient to do when you’re barbecuing something else.

Probably the Azerbaijanis’ inspiration was the older Middle Eastern tradition of grilling chunks of eggplant on a skewer. They adapted the dish to the potato after it arrived from the New World. And they did the same with another New World import, the tomato.

Tomato kebab is a little less exotic though, at least if you were around for the Greek food craze that swept the country in the 1960s. Back then souvlaki just wasn’t souvlaki unless you inserted cherry tomatoes between your chunks of wine-marinated beef. Pomidor kababï is the same idea except that it does without the meat.

Interestingly, according to the photo I’ve seen, the tomatoes are pierced through the sides, rather than from the stem end. The recipe recommended small, juicy, fully ripe tomatoes, apparently of some size between cherry and Roma, which I imagine are best if you can get them.

Both these ideas come from “Azärbayjan Kulinariyasï,” a polyglot coffee-table cookbook published in Azeri, Russian and English.

Yes, there is an English translation but you can’t necessarily go by it. Take the recipe for gabirga-kabab, which reads, “Cut into equal pieces fat mutton brisket. These pieces string on a spit with flesh on one side and roast over charcoals. Dress with coiled onions, shredded herbs and pomegranate grains, when serving.”

From studying the Azeri and Russian texts and the photos, you can figure out that “coiled onions” are onion rings, “shredded herbs” are cilantro and “pomegranate grains” can be narsharab, a sweet-sour molasses made from boiled-down pomegranate juice, like the Lebanese dibs rumman but rather more tart.

As for this potato kebab recipe, the book calls for 16 “middle-sized potatoes left whole” but the photo shows oblong new potatoes cut in half. It sounds as if you can use just about any smallish spuds so long as they aren’t so thick that they will take too long to cook.

By the way, if you’re thinking about grilling tomatoes this way, you had better use the Middle Eastern skewers with a flat blade shape. On old-fashioned round skewers, the tomatoes will tend to slip, making it hard to turn the skewer over. They will cook in about 20 minutes.

Potato Kebabs (Kartof Kababï)

Serves 2

Ingredients

6 small potatoes

2 ounces (½ stick) butter, melted

Salt and ground red pepper to taste

1 bunch green onions, roots and ½ of green part trimmed

Directions

1. Cut and skewer the potatoes. Remove the eyes.

2. Start your barbecue. If using charcoal, burn until the briquettes are covered with gray ash.

3. Brush the potatoes very lightly with melted butter and grill, turning over from time to time to check doneness. When the potatoes can easily be pierced with a fork (taking care not to break them) and are browned on  both sides, about 45 minutes, remove and serve, sprinkled with salt and pepper and garnished with green onions with the rest of the melted butter on the side.

Top photo: Potato Kebabs (Kartof Kababï). Credit: Charles Perry

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Why Make Dates Super Sweet? Really, It Makes Scents Image

Ripe dates are pretty lush as they are, but leave it to medieval Middle Eastern cooks to take that quality practically beyond imagining. They made a sweet called tamr mu’assal (honeyed dates) or tamr mulawwaz (almond-stuffed dates) by poaching dates in honey with saffron and perfume, perhaps stuffing them with almonds first.

It’s easy to make, except for the task of removing the pits if you’re stuffing the dates, but you can sometimes find dates that are already pitted or even ready-stuffed with almonds. And you do have to obtain these perfumes: saffron, rosewater and musk. But the effect on diners is worth it, sweet, plush and staggeringly aromatic. And when I say sweet, I mean you’re in danger of sugar shock.

Rosewater and saffron are relatively easy to find at gourmet shops or Middle Eastern markets. The clove, nutmeg and cinnamon in this dish are more familiar.

You’ll probably have to shop on the Internet to find musk, though. It is highly unlikely that you’ll find natural musk, because the traditional sources of musk — the musk deer and the civet cat — are endangered species. No matter, artificial musk will be plenty aromatic enough. In fact, musk is so strong that when you flavor the dates with it, do not think of putting it in by the drop because one drop is far too much and will make the dates inedible. You’ll use your fingertip to infuse less than a drop in this recipe.

Supple dates and slivered almonds

Dates are consumed at several degrees of ripeness, each of which has its own name in Arabic. Tamr is the variety we’re most familiar with. Tamr dates are sweet and dry, perhaps a little gaunt or even shriveled. If you are fortunate you may find dates at the rutab stage, which are soft, moist and very, very sweet.

They tend not to stay this way because they dry out. Medieval Arab cookbooks often give recipes for plumping up tamr dates with moisture so that they can pass for rutab. If you do have soft-ripe dates (the Medjool variety is sometimes sold this way), don’t bother to remove the pits and stuff them with almonds because they’re too soft. Just poach them in the flavored honey.

Once upon a time you could easily find blanched almonds in markets, but these days the almond choices are often limited to whole, slivered and sliced. You can blanch whole almonds yourself but it’s a little tiresome. You bring water to the boil, take it from the fire and let the almonds sit in it until the peels loosen, then transfer them to cold water and strip the skins off by hand. Sliced almonds are not quite suitable for this dish, but slivered almonds are just fine, in my book. In fact, it’s easier to get two or three slivers into a date than one blanched almond.

Richly indulgent

These dates are so sweet and rich that two or three are enough of a serving for many diners. You might want to make sure that diners have a glass of water at hand, particularly if you’re using rutab dates, because these can be really, really sweet.

Perfumed Dates

Makes about 30 dates, serves 8 to 10 people

Ingredients

7 or 8 ounces of dates

About 30 blanched almonds or 1½ to 2 ounces slivered almonds

1 pound honey, about 1⅔ cups

¾ to 1 teaspoon rosewater

5 to 8 threads saffron

Musk

½ cup sugar, preferably finely granulated in a food processor

Dash cinnamon

Dash clove

Dash nutmeg

Directions

1. Remove the pits from the dates. A small skewer or something similar should do the trick. Stuff dates with the almonds.

2. Thin the honey with rosewater. Crush the saffron and stir it into the honey. Put the dates in a small saucepan, cover with the honey and simmer over lowest heat for about 1 hour. The dates should become plumper and the honey should thicken but not boil.

3. Remove a spoonful of the honey and allow it to cool on the spoon. Unscrew the lid of the musk vial, cover mouth of the vial with your fingertip, shake it, then remove your fingertip and close the vial again. Dip your fingertip in the spoon of cooled honey and stir a little of it into the saucepan. If you want it more aromatic, stir in more.

Allow the dates to cool in the honey.

4. Whenever it is convenient, set a rack over a plate, remove the dates from the honey and transfer them to the rack to drain.

5. When the dates have drained, put them on a plate. Mix the sugar with the spices and toss the dates with this mixture to cover. Transfer them to a serving plate or storage bowl. Keep the honey in a closed container and use it like ordinary honey.

Top photo: Perfumed dates. Credit: Charles Perry

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Lime Lends Exotic Twist To Cake With Fried Banana Filling Image

Lime ought to show up more often in cakes; that’s my philosophy. Lemon is great, sure. But there are already plenty of lemon cakes and lemon frostings. No doubt lemon is a cheery and optimistic flavor. But lime is rich and exotic.

Following this line of thought, I ended up with a cake with a lime butterscotch cream cheese frosting and a filling of fried bananas. The palate just wants what it wants.

The evolution of cake experiments

My first step down the lime path was obvious — coconut cake with lime zest and a bit of lime juice in the frosting (because I believe fruit-flavored frostings should be sweet-sour). Lime in the coconut, get it? I’m referring to “Coconut,” that 1970s hit song about a woman who mixed lime and coconut juice, got a stomachache and called her doctor, who surprisingly prescribed drinking more lime and coconut.

The doctor in the song sounded a little peevish because she’d called him in the middle of the night. Still, everybody in the song seemed fine with this prescription, and so did everybody who tasted my lime in the coconut cake.

Next I made a lemon poppy seed pound cake substituting lime juice and zest for the lemon. It was a big hit, because people who love pound cake love it passionately, and because I’d topped it with a cream cheese frosting. I’d noticed that people who love pound cake passionately also have a thing for cream cheese.

When I frosted a cake with lime butter cream and filled it with lime curd, it struck me that I might be binging on limes. Meanwhile, I’d gotten interested in ways to use bananas in cake, but not as banana bread, of which I’m not a big fan. However, I am a big fan of butterscotch, an unjustly neglected flavor in my book.

Finding flavors that complement each other

So I decided to make a lime butterscotch cream cheese frosting, just to check off all the possibilities. It was pretty good because this butterscotch cream cheese frosting takes other flavors, such as ground instant coffee, beautifully.

Cream cheese frosting is mostly used on dense cakes like carrot cake, rather than on butter cake, and the recipes tend to make just barely enough to frost a cake. Here was where my banana experimentation paid off, apart from the fact that banana and butterscotch go together beautifully.

Fry some bananas soft with butter and brown sugar, and they make a terrific filling, suavely giving you more cream cheese frosting to cover the outside of the cake.

In retrospect, this was all obvious, so obvious. I’m almost embarrassed to mention it. But just almost.

Lime Butterscotch Cream Cheese Banana Cake

Makes 1 two-layer cake

Ingredients

For the cake:

3 cups flour plus about 2 tablespoons for flouring the pans

½ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup milk

2 sticks butter, softened, plus more for greasing cake pans

2 cups sugar

4 eggs

For the banana filling:

3 ripe bananas

About ½ stick butter

2 tablespoons brown sugar

The juice of ½ a lime

For the lime butterscotch cream cheese frosting:

½ stick butter

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese

¼ cup brown sugar

1 pound confectioner’s sugar

Juice and zest from ½ a lime

Directions

For the cake:

1. Turn on the oven to 350 F.

2. Mix 3 cups of flour, salt and baking powder and set aside.

3. Add the vanilla to the milk and set aside.

4. Grease two 9-inch cake pans. Put the remaining 2 tablespoons of flour into one pan and shake around until the interior is floured, then pour the remainder into the other pan and repeat.

5. Beat the butter until light and fluffy, then pour in the sugar in a thin stream while beating until the mixture is light and the mixer’s motor has reached its highest speed.

6. Add the eggs one at a time, beating 20 seconds after each addition.

7. Add 1 cup of the flour mixture and beat at medium slow speed, encouraging the absorption with a spatula, just until the flour is absorbed.

8. Add half of the milk and repeat, then another cup of flour, the rest of the milk and the rest of the flour.

9. Divide the mixture equally between the two cake pans and bake until the layers are lightly browned and pulling away from the sides of the pan, about 35 to 40 minutes. The tip should spring back if touched and a toothpick inserted in the cake should come back without any damp crumbs on it.

10. Set the cake pans on a cooling rack for 10 minutes, then remove from the pans and return to the rack until cool.

For the banana filling:

1. Peel the bananas and slice each in half lengthwise.

2. Melt the butter in a large frying pan and arrange the slices on it. Cook over medium low heat until the bananas soften, about 15 minutes. Turn them over with a spatula, sprinkle with the brown sugar and fry another 5 to 10 minutes.

3. Sprinkle with lime juice and leave to cool.

For the lime butterscotch cream cheese frosting:

1. Melt the butter in a small pan over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until most of the foam has settled and the butter has a cooked, but not browned, flavor. Pour the butter off into a bowl and return to the refrigerator until solid, about 10 minutes.

2. Whip the cream cheese in a mixer until quite fluffy.

3. If you have a mortar, grind the brown sugar as fine as possible. Add the brown sugar to the cream cheese and whip until the mixture looks smooth. Add the butter and beat until smooth. Add the confectioner’s sugar and beat at the lowest speed until the sugar is incorporated. Add the zest and juice of the lime and beat until smooth; you may add more zest or juice to taste.

To assemble the cake:

Set one cake layer upside down on a plate. Spread a very thin layer of frosting onto the exposed side. With a spatula, transfer the fried bananas onto the cake layer, then top it with the other cake layer, right side up. Scoop all the frosting onto the top of the cake and work down over the sides with a spatula.

Top photo: Lime Butterscotch Cream Cheese Banana Cake. Credit: Charles Perry

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Let The Ovation Begin. Afghani Dish Has A Universal Twist. Image

The only dish I’ve ever gotten a standing ovation for was Afghani. It’s called aushak, which sounds a little like the singular of “aw, shucks,” and I did do my best to seem modest. No one could deny, though, that it made a brave display on the serving dish — a field of yellowish pasta topped with a thick, dark red tomato-y stew and, finally, a flourish of brilliant white yogurt.

It’s a special occasion dish because it calls for lamb, which can often be hard to find in the United States, not to mention expensive. It’s also special because the original Afghan version of aushak stew is laborious. You have to make lots of finicky little ravioli, something like the Italian capelletti, stuffed with minced leeks.

The leeks add a trifle of flavor, and on special occasions, I expect I’ll do it the traditional way. Meanwhile, I have a simpler, cheaper and just about comparably luscious version of aushak stew, made with Italian sausage and farfalle (bowtie pasta).

My adaptation is not a huge leap from the original, apart from the fact that Afghans would certainly not serve pork, because aushak uses a thick tomato sauce with a touch of sweetness,  depending on the ripeness of the tomatoes. In most Middle Eastern and West Asian cuisines, what people consider a tomato sauce is surprisingly thin and tart by our standards, accustomed as we are to marinara sauce (and to tomato ketchup, for that matter). Often the sauces are made with tomato juice, rather than whole tomatoes.

These are not failed spaghetti sauces. They are supposed to be thin and tart. They continue the medieval practice of perking up sauces with a bit of sourish fruit juice. In the Middle Ages, lamb stew might be flavored with pomegranate, rhubarb or sour grape juice. The taste for a little sour tang survives today, and tomato juice serves as a convenient substitute for the fruit juice.

But aushak sauce, as I’ve had it, is a thick sauce not too different from an Italian salsa. So this could be a dish from the Italian-Afghani border, if such a place existed.

The final topping is thickened yogurt, also called yogurt cheese, a reasonably familiar ingredient these days. Kitchenware stores often sell little devices for straining it. If you don’t have the handy device, you just drain yogurt in a clean cloth until it’s as thick as you want. If you have a Middle Eastern market handy, you’re in luck, because many of them stock thickened yogurt already made under names such as labneh or yaourti tou pongiou.

Faux Aushak

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

1 quart unsweetened, unflavored yogurt, or 2 cups thickened yogurt

1 to 2 garlic cloves

2 onions

2 tablespoons oil

4 Italian sausages, sweet or hot

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

1 (28-ounce) can chopped tomatoes

Salt

1 to 2 teaspoons sugar (optional)

1 pound farfalle (bowtie pasta)

3 quarts water

Directions

1. If making your own thickened yogurt, stir it to break up the curd and put it on a clean cloth or several layers of cheesecloth in a sieve; or tie the cloth up like a bag and hang it from a kitchen faucet or even a shower head for whey to drip away, 3 to 4 hours or more. It should end up with a thick scoopable texture.

2. Using a garlic press, add pressed garlic to the thickened yogurt and stir. Set aside.

3. Chop the onions. Put the oil in a large pan and heat. Add the onions and fry over medium heat until translucent.

4. Remove the skins from the sausages and break the sausage meat up into bits as well as you can manage. Stir the meat into the onions and continue to fry, separating the pieces until the meat stiffens, or until it is slightly brown if preferred. Add the tomato paste and canned tomatoes, stir and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes. Taste and add salt and optional sugar if you like.

5. Simmer uncovered until the sauce is thick and rich, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

6. Pour the water into a 6-quart saucepan with a little salt and bring to a full boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente, about 14 minutes. Drain.

7. Arrange the pasta on plates or a serving dish, ladle the sauce on top and finally top with the yogurt.

Top photo: Faux aushak with tomatoes and bowtie pasta. Credit: Charles Perry

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Bless The Bishop For A Rich Holiday Punch Image

This is the time of year for hot drinks such as buttered rum. Here’s one from the 18th century that fits right in. The drink called bishop is like mulled wine crossed with sangria with a dash of triple sec and a rich and intriguing flavor we rarely use, baked orange peel. It would move pretty fast at a holiday party, and it could even be served cold in summer.

I don’t really know why it’s called bishop, though some people say it was served when a bishop came to visit, and one Maryland recipe collection reportedly says to add brandy “according to the capacity of the bishop.”

The idea of flavoring wine goes back to the Romans, who liked to put spices and fenugreek leaves in it. From the Middle Ages down to the 17th century, monks and doctors made liqueurs with secret herb mixtures while laypeople were whipping up concoctions with names such as ypocras and metheglin. These were all medicinal beverages, or so people told themselves.

In India, the English finally learned to mix drinks for purely recreational purposes. The toddy, from a Hindi word for palm wine, was essentially whiskey, sugar and hot water. The name punch comes from the Hindi word panch, which means “five,” because it originally had five ingredients. Finally, shrub, which comes from the Arabic word sharab, or “beverage,” seems to have been punch with fewer ingredients.

Most of these punches were basically booze mixed with sugar and lemon or lime juice. In the modern world, punch, apart from children’s birthday punches and the wedding champagne punch, has evolved into a cocktail. Most often it is essentially a miniature, single-serve punch mixed to order. And when making cocktails, bartenders still go through a lot of lime juice and Collins mix. Another thing old-time punches and cocktails had in common was that they were often sprinkled with nutmeg, which doesn’t go on anything but eggnog today.

Once they got the idea, the English started running with it. Negus was essentially strong lemonade mixed with wine, perhaps topped off with some brandy. And then there was bishop, which was wine mixed with orange juice. (When bishop was born, it was a showoffy drink because oranges were expensive imported delicacies.)

I’ve followed the recipe in Mrs. Lettice Bryant’s “The Kentucky Housewife” (1839) except for baking the oranges rather than roasting them before the hearth fire. “Serve either warm or cold,” the recipe says, “in glasses, and grate nutmeg thickly over the tops.” Cheers, reverend sir.

Bishop

Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients

6 oranges, preferably Valencias

1½ cups sugar

1 bottle red wine, divided

Freshly ground nutmeg

Directions

1. Bake the oranges at 350 F until the peels soften, about 25 minutes. The peels will look a little puffy and shiny and have a piney aroma. Don’t worry about a few browned spots. Let the oranges cool, slice them into a large mixing bowl and stir with the sugar and half of the wine.

2. Cover overnight.

3. At serving time, squeeze the oranges and stir up the mixture to make sure the sugar is dissolved. In a saucepan, heat the rest of the bottle of wine to just under the boiling point and strain the orange-wine mixture into it. Serve sprinkled with nutmeg.

Top photo: Wine, oranges and nutmeg go into the cocktail called bishop. Credit: Charles Perry

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Red And Green Holiday Relish That One-Ups Escoffier Image

Elizabeth David called it Escoffier’s chutney, and in the 1970s many of the food lovers who were about to give birth to California cuisine were electrified by the idea of this red and green holiday relish.

They were fans of David and her cookbooks, which specialized in earthy Mediterranean cuisine, and here she was writing about a recipe from Auguste Escoffier, the codifier of old-fashioned French restaurant cuisine.

But it was certainly a home-style Mediterranean relish. David speculated that it was something Escoffier remembered fondly from his childhood in a village near Nice. He called it pimentos for cold meat, but it was understandable for David to proclaim it a chutney because of its sweet-sour flavor with emphasis on the sweet. (In India, of course, chatni refers to fresh salsa-like relishes, which are rarely sweet at all.)

It certainly goes well with cold meat, but it would not at all be out of place with, say, a holiday pork roast. Or grilled sausages. Or grilled cheese. Or just about anything, in my book.

Food lovers were crazy about it for a while, but soon more exotic possibilities beckoned, and it dropped out of the avant-garde category. A lot of people still make it, though, and I’m one of them.

Red and green pepper relish. Credit: Wynne Everett

Red and green pepper relish. Credit: Wynne Everett

But I have to acknowledge that my version of red-and-green holiday relish has morphed in my usage over the years and it’s no long quite what Escoffier would recognize.

The relish is simple to make. Just sauté onions to soften them, then simmer for a good long time with sweet peppers, tomatoes, vinegar, sugar and flavorings. By this time I’ve forgotten what spices Escoffier used. I’ve change it to cloves and mace, a delightful spice combination that was often used in 19th-century American cookery but survives today mostly in tomato ketchup.

Yeah, I like ketchup. It’s a fine upstanding condiment and I make no apology.

The original recipe is actually a little too sweet for my taste, so I’ve taken to substituting dried cranberries for the raisins. And cranberries are a nice seasonal ingredient.

And we’re entering the holly season, when everything tends to be red and green. The original recipe called for red sweet peppers, but the kind you find in a supermarket aren’t that much sweeter than green bell peppers. So I decided to combine red and green peppers to make it a relish to go with a pork roast, a standing rib roast, a goose or whatever you cook for your holiday meal. In fact, you can bottle up some of it for holiday gifts.

In other words, this is a relish for the Holly Days. (Again, I make no apology.)

Red and green peppers for a holiday relish. Credit: Wynne Everett

Red and green peppers for a holiday relish. Credit: Wynne Everett

Red and Green Holiday Relish

Makes about 1 quart

Ingredients

½ pound onions

4 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil

½ pound green bell peppers

½ pound red bell peppers

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon mace, with a dash of cloves, preferably freshly ground

1 pound ripe tomatoes

1 clove garlic

¼ pound dried cranberries

½ pound sugar

5 ounces vinegar

Directions

1. Peel the onions and chop fine. Put the oil in a saucepan, add the onions and cook over medium heat until softened and translucent.

2. Wash the peppers, remove the stem end, the core and the seeds, and cut the remainder into convenient pieces. I like short strips ⅓  inch by 1½ inch. Add them to the onions along with the salt, mace and clove and simmer 10 minutes.

3. Put enough water in a separate saucepan to cover a tomato. Bring it to a full boil and drop the tomatoes into it one by one long enough to cook the peel so that it will split when you cut it with a knife, 20 or 30 seconds. Peel the tomatoes and chop coarsely. Add to the onions and peppers along with the garlic, cranberries and sugar.

4. When everything is mixed, add the vinegar, cover the saucepan and cook at a low temperature (the pot should bubble only slowly) for at least 1¼ hours.

5. When done, taste and correct the amount of salt, sugar and vinegar to your taste, if necessary.

Top photo: Red and green holiday relish. Credit: Wynne Everett

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