Gifts – Zester Daily Zester Daily Fri, 05 Jan 2018 10:00:10 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Turmeric Candy: Give A Gift of Health & Drink to It Too /cooking/turmeric-candy-give-gift-health-drink/ Sun, 17 Dec 2017 10:00:25 +0000 /?p=57753 Candied turmeric provides a gift for friends -- and for yourself. The simple syrup left over from the candied turmeric recipe makes a wonderful flavoring for cocktails. Credit: David Hagerman

By now, you’ve probably heard about turmeric: the yellow-orange rhizome native to South Asia recognized for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

The ingredient in Indian and southeast Asian cuisines that colors curries and other dishes gold, turmeric (Curcuma longa) is a staple in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicines. Studies suggest that the rhizome may be helpful in treating osteoarthritis, viral and bacterial infections, stomach ulcers, cancer and other conditions.

I’ve known of turmeric’s usefulness in treating the common cold since 2008, when I stumbled upon sugar-coated slices of the rhizome at the central market in Hoi An, Vietnam. I’d been nursing a scratchy throat and runny nose for three chilly, drizzly days. When a vendor heard me cough, she pushed a bag of candied turmeric in my direction and motioned toward my throat and red eyes. I ate several slices then and there and intermittently snacked on the turmeric for the rest of the day. By morning, my sore throat was gone. By day two, I felt good as new.

A Not-So-Common Cure for the Common Cold

Over the last few years I’ve incorporated turmeric into my daily diet, usually combined with green tea, ginger and lemongrass in the form of a powerhouse infusion. I drink the refreshing, slightly spicy and astringent elixir iced, as a preventive. I haven’t suffered a cold since late 2011.

So this Christmas, I’m giving friends the gift of good health in the form of jars of candied turmeric slices (and making extra for myself to carry with me on travels). The lovely orange flesh of the rhizome has a slight bitterness that proves a wonderful foil for a coating of white sugar. To increase the snack’s healthfulness, I add black pepper — believed to increase the body’s ability to absorb turmeric’s beneficial ingredient, curcumin to the simple syrup in which I poach thin slices of turmeric.

An Unexpected Extra That You Can Tip Your Glass To

At the end, I’m left with a bonus: a beautiful, astringent-bitter simple syrup that makes a great flavoring for cocktails.

Like ginger, turmeric peels most easily with the edge of a spoon. The rhizome stains anything it touches (wear an apron) and will leave a dark orange, tacky goo on your spoon and knife. To remove it and the color that’s left on your hands, cutting board and other kitchen surfaces, wash with a kitchen cream cleanser.

Look for fresh turmeric at Whole Foods and other specialty grocery stores, gourmet markets and southeast Asian and Indian groceries.

Candied Turmeric

Prep time: 15 to 20 minutes to peel and slice the turmeric plus up to 6 hours to dry the turmeric slices.

Cook time: 20 to 25 minutes

Yield: 3/4 to 1 cup candied turmeric slices

Thin slices are paramount here, as is allowing ample time for your turmeric to dry after poaching. Rush this step and you’ll end up with unattractive clumps of sugar and rhizome.


3/4 pound fresh turmeric

1 cup water

3/4 cup sugar, plus 1/3 cup for tossing the poached turmeric


Prepping the turmeric:

1. Break any small knobs off of the main turmeric root and use the edge of a spoon to peel the skin off of all of the rhizome pieces. Use a paring knife to peel away any stubborn bits of skin.

2. Rinse the peeled turmeric and slice it as thinly as possible into coins and strips.

To candy the turmeric: 

1. In a medium saucepan, heat the water. Add 3/4 cup sugar and stir to dissolve.

2. Add the turmeric, stir to submerge all of the pieces and bring the syrup to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer briskly until the turmeric slices are tender but not limp, about 25 minutes.

3. Drain the turmeric in a colander or sieve placed over a bowl, then transfer the turmeric slices to a cooling rack set over a baking sheet or piece of foil or parchment paper. (Set the turmeric syrup aside to cool and use to flavor sparkling water and cocktails.) Arrange the turmeric slices on the rack so that they do not overlap and place in a well-ventilated spot (underneath a ceiling fan is ideal). Allow the turmeric to dry until the slices are slightly tacky but no longer wet, at least 3 hours and as many as 6 hours, depending on the temperature and ventilation in the room.

4. Toss the turmeric slices in 1/3 cup of sugar until coated. (Don’t throw away leftover sugar; it’s delicious in tea.) Store the turmeric in a clean, dry jar or other container. If you live in a hot, humid climate you may need to refrigerate it to keep the sugar from dissolving.

The Orangutang

Yield: 1 cocktail

Syrup and orange juice make this pretty and potent bourbon cocktail a little bit sweet. Campari and turmeric add a nice astringent-bitter edge; lemon juice adds a hint of tartness.


2 ounces bourbon

1 ounce Campari

1 ounce orange juice

1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) turmeric simply syrup (see Candied Turmeric recipe, above)

2 teaspoons lemon juice

Orange slice, for serving


Pour all of the ingredients except for the orange slice into a cocktail shaker. Add a handful of ice. Shake and pour the cocktail and ice into a short glass. Garnish the rim of the glass with the orange slice.

Main photo: Candied turmeric provides a gift for friends — and for yourself. The simple syrup left over from the candied turmeric recipe makes a wonderful flavoring for cocktails. Credit: Copyright 2017 David Hagerman

11 Gifts From Nature That Foragers Love To Share /foraging-2/11-gifts-from-nature-that-foragers-love-to-share/ /foraging-2/11-gifts-from-nature-that-foragers-love-to-share/#comments Wed, 06 Dec 2017 10:00:43 +0000 /?p=76578 Rose hips. Credit: Copyright 2016 Wendy Petty

For foragers, calls to return to meaningful holiday gifts can be easily answered by turning to their well-stocked pantries. Presents made from wild foods are often easy to put together, budget-friendly, and are infused with the love of something handmade. With a little creativity, you can use the wild wonders you already have at hand to delight your friends and family with anything foraged, from porcini salt to elderflower cordial. Take some inspiration from the following list, wrap it in a beautiful jar or tin and a bow, and you will be certain to give gifts that will be enjoyed this holiday season.

Infused Salts and Sugars — Combining a precious wild ingredient with salt or sugar can be an economical way to introduce your loved ones to wild flavors. Wild mushrooms combine beautifully with salt, as do some aromatic plants such as elderflower and wild mint. Nutrient-dense seeds such as evening primrose and nettle also combine well with salt. Bakers will delight in sugars flavored with everything from spruce tips to sumac.

Spice Blends — Making an unforgettable spice blend can be as simple as tweaking one ingredient in a well-known mix, such as adding beebalm (Mondarda fistulosa) to za’atar in place of oregano. Alternatively, you can make a spice mix using herbs only found in your region, something that really speaks to the place you live.

Pickles and Preserves — Jams and jellies, whether entirely made from a wild ingredient or blended, make especially nice gifts for folks who feel nervous about foraged foods. Pickles made from wild goods can be wonderful for more adventurous friends and family. There are certain people for whom strawberry knotweed jam may be a better gift, while others would love the thrill of trying knotweed pickles.

Baked Goods

Cream scones with wild currants. Credit: Copyright 2016 Wendy Petty

Cream scones with wild currants. Credit: Copyright 2017 Wendy Petty

Baked Goods — Who could turn down homemade scones studded with dried currants, snickerdoodles rolled in juniper sugar, or cattail pollen shortbread? Cookies, cakes and breads become truly special, something that could never be purchased, with the addition of just a single foraged ingredient.

Gift Certificate for Homemade Wild Foods Dinner — If you are a forager, there may be no better way to introduce novices and aspirational wildcrafters to wild flavors than cooking dinner for them. Bold new flavors and unfamiliar foods can seem less intimidating when cooked, served and explained by the person who picked them.

Kitchen Medicine — Many wild foods are deeply medicinal in addition to tasting delicious. Elderberry elixir, which is excellent for aiding the body in fighting viruses, can be made by filling a jar one-quarter full with dried elderberries, then filling it the rest of the way with half honey, half alcohol of choice. Chopped wild onions mixed with honey make an excellent cough syrup. Fire cider is a popular cure-all made by combining ingredients like horseradish, garlic, onions, chiles and wild herbs like beebalm with vinegar.

Wild Seeds — If you love a particular wild plant and want to ensure it keeps growing, tuck seeds into a hand-illustrated envelope, or make them into a seed bomb by wetting a 1:1 ratio of compost and clay, and encasing seeds inside a ball of it. Use caution however, and make certain you aren’t propagating invasive species.

Tea Blends and DIY Kits

Mouse ornament with wild tea blend. Credit: Copyright 2016 Wendy Petty

Mouse ornament with wild tea blend. Credit: Copyright 2017 Wendy Petty

Tea Blends and DIY Kits — You can put together all-wild tisane blends using ingredients such as nettles, rosehips, mints, even include some popped or ground seeds. Or, package each ingredient in a separate container for a choose-your-own-adventure tea set. Don’t be afraid to combine wild ingredients with black, green or other varieties of tea.

Dried Fruit — If you have surplus dried fruits in your pantry, this is a snack that few would turn down, young or old. Depending upon the fruit, it can be given plain, dipped into chocolate, turned into fruit leather or soaked in a flavorful liquid like watered-down cinnamon and honey and dried a second time.

Infused Alcohol or Shrubs — For cocktail lovers, there can be no better gifts than alcohol infused with wild ingredients, wild syrups and shrubs. Stick with classics like elderflower cordial, or get creative and combine any number of wild fruits or flowers into drink bases. Try crabapples and star anise in brandy. Mix wild rose and strawberries with vinegar and sugar syrup to make a sunny shrub. Put mushrooms in vodka for advanced mixologist.

Specialty Ingredient Plus a Recipe — If you have a wild ingredient that your loved ones are eager to try but unlikely to harvest and process on their own, you can give it to them ready to go. For example, give them enough acorn flour to make acorn brownies, along with a handwritten recipe card.

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Must-Have Cookbooks: IACP Awards Best Of The Best /book-reviews/must-cookbooks-iacp-awards-best-best/ /book-reviews/must-cookbooks-iacp-awards-best-best/#respond Mon, 30 Mar 2015 09:00:53 +0000 /?p=63860 Photo collage: Some of the 2015 cookbook winners announced at the IACP awards show March 29 in Washington, D.C.

The International Association of Culinary Professionals announced the best cookbooks published in 2014 at its annual convention, held March 27 to 30 in Washington, D.C.

Winners were chosen in 19 categories, including American and international sweet and savory cooking; restaurant- and chef-centered books and those homing in on culinary travel; e-cookbooks and culinary history; and literary food writing and photography. The IACP program is widely lauded as the most selective in the industry due to its two-tier judging process that requires recipe testing in all relevant categories.

“A New Napa Cuisine,” by Christopher Kostow, was chosen the IACP 2015 Cookbook of the Year, and won in the Global Design category as well. Among the other winners was Zester Daily contributor Ramin Ganeshram, whose book “FutureChefs: Recipes by Tomorrow’s Cooks Across the Nation and the World” won in the Children, Youth and Family category.

Celebrity chef Curtis Stone was the emcee at the IACP awards event.

This slideshow provides the winner in each category and a brief summary or review of each cookbook.

More from Zester Daily:

» Cookbooks to covet: IACP names 2015 award finalists
» No baking required to savor writer’s bread odyssey
» From wicked to inspired, ‘Grilled Cheese’ inspires
» Dan Pashman’s ‘Eat More Better’ makes dining delicious
» ‘Prune’: A glimpse into a chef’s untamed cooking mind

Photo collage: Some of the 2015 cookbook winners announced at the IACP awards show March 29 in Washington, D.C.
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How Anyone Can Do Better On Valentine’s Day Candy /gifts-2/how-anyone-can-do-better-on-valentines-day-candy/ /gifts-2/how-anyone-can-do-better-on-valentines-day-candy/#comments Wed, 04 Feb 2015 10:00:33 +0000 /?p=60756 Valentine's Day chocolate. Credit: Barbara Haber

If I happen to be in a drugstore on Valentine’s Day, I see men of all ages standing in line to pay for those heart-shaped boxes of chocolates tucked under their arms, and I say to myself, “You can do better.” By waiting until the last minute, they wind up in stores open later than others and buy chocolates that can be waxy, too sweet and filled with artificial flavorings. With a bit of planning, people seeking Valentine’s Day candy can present their loved ones with something really delicious.

That chocolates have taken their place as a Valentine’s Day gift of choice is easy to understand. It is a sensuous food that gives instant pleasure, having a flavor and texture people truly love. In the words of cartoonist and humorist Sandra Boynton, “Research tells us that 14 out of any 10 individuals like chocolate.” Her book “Chocolate: The Consuming Passion” came out in the 1980s when we believed that chocolate wasn’t good for us and would buy carob from health food stores, thinking it a worthy substitute. About this practice Boynton says, “Carob can, when combined with vegetable fat and sugar, be made to approximate the color and consistency of chocolate.” She adds, “Of course, the same arguments can as persuasively be made in favor of dirt.” Happily, these days we are told that chocolate contains properties that are healthy, and when eaten in moderation can provide nutrients as well as pleasure.

For reasons that have never been clear to me, gifts of chocolates have been assigned to what men are supposed to give to women and not the other way around. But I dare say that we all know men who like candy, just as we know women who love beefsteaks and roasts, foods thought to be the prerogative of men. With this in mind, I have suggestions for gender-free Valentine gifts bound to make almost anyone happy.


Most cities and many towns have chocolate shops run by independent chocolate makers who have specialty items that make wonderful gifts and, like other businesses, these shops have online services giving everyone access to these treats. In Boston, where I live, we have Burdick candy shops, and their signature chocolate is in the shape of a little mouse filled with divine ganache. These come in your choice of dark, milk or white chocolate, and packed together in a little wooden box make charming gifts.

Burdick's signature chocolate is in the shape of a little mouse filled with divine ganache. Credit: Barbara Haber

Burdick’s signature chocolate is in the shape of a little mouse filled with divine ganache. Credit: Barbara Haber

Jacques Torres

While in New York recently, I gazed into the Jacques Torres shop at Grand Central Station and understood why this famous pastry chef and chocolatier has been dubbed “Mr. Chocolate.” His window was filled with stunning examples of his art including chocolate boxes filled with beautifully shaped pieces, and a clever and elegant Valentine’s gift of a three-piece puzzle that, when put together, forms a heart that says “I love you.”

Less is more

This leads me to an important point I want to make. Fine chocolate makers offer small sizes of gifts that are affordable as well as appropriate. Encased as they are in exquisite packaging, they are a far cry from those cardboard red hearts with tacky gold bows found in drugstores. That they are available in five-pound sizes does not make them better.


If you prefer a homespun candy, then I would recommend See’s Candies, a confection that was started by Charles See in Los Angeles in 1921 and is available in shops throughout the American West. Its logo is a picture of Mary See, the founder’s mother, whose sweet-faced, white-haired, bespectacled image is meant to reflect the fresh and wholesome ingredients found in the company’s chocolates. This brand happens to be a favorite of mine, and when Warren Buffett bought the company because he liked the product, I said to myself, “If it’s good enough for Warren Buffett, it’s certainly good enough for me.” Like any of the shops mentioned, See’s does a flourishing online business that even allows you to select only the pieces you like. This avoids the infamous practice of people squeezing and peering at chocolates found in assortments to examine their fillings, then putting them back in the box when not to their liking.

Chocolate to last

If a single gift of chocolates seems too minimal, then perhaps signing up with a chocolate-of-the-month club will strike you as a good idea. These deals vary in the quality of the chocolate, the varieties available and the frequency of the deliveries. You can, for instance, sign up with a company such as Godiva or Harry & David that can send out the gifts every three or even four months instead of once a month. There is something really exciting, not to mention romantic, about receiving such a gift throughout the year; in this way, the intent of Valentine’s Day — to express one’s love — is stretched out, too.

Don’t let your sweet tooth cloak your inner wisdom

When making this rather pricey overture, however, a word of caution is in order. Make sure that your relationship is on solid ground, for what could be more galling than knowing the person who dumped you is still receiving your generous gifts.

Main photo: A Valentine Day’s message that needs no explanation. Credit: Barbara Haber

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6 Gifts For Canners: Old School, Hipster & Science Geek /gifts-2/gifts-canners-old-school-hipster-science-geek/ /gifts-2/gifts-canners-old-school-hipster-science-geek/#respond Sun, 21 Dec 2014 10:00:37 +0000 /?p=58286 J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Work's finishing salt, pectin jaune and pâte de fruit top my holiday gift list for canners this year. Credit: Susan Lutz

Canners like me tend to give gifts in cans or jars: marmalade from the backyard tree, red wine vinegar made from the leftover bottles of a special party, goat cheese hand-rolled by the kids.

But sometimes the cupboards are bare. And sometimes you want a little something from Santa yourself. That’s when you need ideas from canners — for canners.

In my experience there are three major styles of food preservers: I call them old school, hipster and science geek. (There are, of course, many other types and hundreds of sub-genres.) The old-school canner likes to preserve the way Grandma did. The hipster is looking for something that preserves with some style. And the science geek is often more interested in the process and cares less that the homemade vinegar tastes good than that the techniques are cool. They each have their own needs when it comes to preservation gear and gadgets.

This is my list for holiday giving, both for presents I’ll be giving to fellow food preservers and, of course, for my own wish list.

Top gifts for food preservers

1. Finishing salt from J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Works, $9 for 3.5-ounce jar, $25 for 1-pound bag.

Serious canners tend to be obsessed with salt, even the fancy kinds that aren’t actually used in food preservation. I discovered this hand-harvested, small-batch finishing salt at Monticello’s harvest festival in the fall. Chefs and speakers at the festival were wedged together in a tiny booth tasting and admiring the complex flavors of this salt. Made by siblings Nancy Bruns and Lewis Payne, this salt is a reinvention of an older tradition of salt processing by their ancestor William Dickinson, who started mining salt along the Kanawha River in the Appalachian Mountains in 1817. I have a case of Dickinson’s 3.5-ounce jars of salt stashed on a shelf ready to be given as hostess gifts. (Truth be told, it’s a case minus two jars, as I’ve decided to keep a couple for myself.)

Great holiday gifts for canners include a lacto-fermentation kit from Rancho La Merced Provisions, J.Q. Dickinson Saltworks' finishing salt and Leifheit canning jars. Credit: Susan Lutz

Great holiday gifts for canners, from left, include a lacto-fermentation kit from Rancho La Merced Provisions, J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Works finishing salt and Leifheit canning jars. Credit: Susan Lutz

2. 1.5-liter lacto-fermentation kit from Rancho La Merced Provisions, $42.

Know someone who loves sauerkraut or kimchi? Science geeks and hipster canners will appreciate the clever design of this kit. I received one of these kits as a gift from the maker, chef Ernest Miller, the man who helped relaunch Los Angeles County’s Master Food Preserver program in 2011. Although old-school canners may scoff at the idea of needing anything more than a Mason jar for lacto-fermentation, this kit helps reduce mold issues and produces more consistent results than old-school methods, especially for the inexperienced canner.

3. 2-gallon stoneware fermentation and pickling set from Kirby & Kraut, $136.

Old-school food preservationists with hipster design aesthetics will swoon over the fabric and artwork choices available to grace this 2-gallon crock with fabric top. As someone who currently uses a dishtowel to cover my crock, I’ll admit that this fermentation kit would be an upgrade to my current setup. I find the red/blue chevron top particularly charming.

4. Pectin jaune from La Cuisine, 8 ounces for $20.

Pectin is gelling substance used to help solidify jams and jellies. Commercially produced powdered pectin is usually made from apple seeds, but pectin jaune is a bit different. Made from the seeds of citrus fruit, pectin jaune will not liquefy after it sets as other pectin can. This unique property makes it the traditional choice for use in pâte de fruits (fruit paste), a delightful French confection that is vaguely similar to — but infinitely better than — those jelly fruit slices that are so popular around the holidays. I found pectin jaune at La Cuisine, an amazing cooking store in Alexandria, Va. Pectin jaune is often available in only large quantities, but this store packages it in 8-ounce bags suitable for small-batch experimentation.

5. Leifheit canning jars, available in various sizes ranging from 1 cup (1/4 liter) to 1 liter, price varies by size. Also available for purchase in six-packs.

Leifheit canning jars use the two-piece lid system recommended by the National Center for Home Food Preservation, but they have a more unique shape than the classic Mason-style jar. Their diamond footprint allows these jars to fit neatly into the canner, which will appeal to organization nuts and those with a strong sense of spatial relationships. Perfect for the hipster canner on your gift list. Although the jars themselves are reusable, consider springing for a few extra sets of replacement lids and rings, which are safe only for one-time use.

6. Nine-tray radiant cherry Excalibur dehydrator with timer, $399.95.

It’s an extravagant gift, but an Excalibur dehydrator is a gift that keeps on giving, especially during the summer harvest season. I’ve been eying this nine-tray cherry red version with a 26-hour timer. There are other dehydrators on the market, but the Excalibur is my favorite because of its horizontal airflow system. When comparing dehydrators, look for an adjustable thermostat, large tray size, mesh screens with small hole size and a timer. Also, be sure to consider how many trays you think you’ll realistically need. I’ve filled up nine trays (15 square feet of drying space) with no problem, but your working style may be different. If you’re going to splurge on a gift of this magnitude, you might want to give the recipient a heads-up so she (or he) can weigh in on color choice and other important features.

But even if you splurge on a beloved fellow canner, also be sure to whip up a batch of apple butter or bake some gingerbread for your nearest and dearest. A homemade gift is often the best gift of all.

Main photo: J.Q. Dickinson Salt-Work’s finishing salt, pectin jaune and pâte de fruit top holiday gift lists for canners this year. Credit: Susan Lutz

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5 DIY Edible Gifts To Impress Everyone On Your List /cooking/5-diy-edible-gifts-impress-everyone-list/ /cooking/5-diy-edible-gifts-impress-everyone-list/#respond Tue, 09 Dec 2014 10:00:31 +0000 /?p=57039 An herbed salt. Credit: Sue Style

Christmas is for sharing, and some of the best gifts to share are the ones you’ve made yourself. The only snag about edible gifts is that once you’ve conceived and created them, put them up in clever containers and wrapped and labeled them with a holiday flourish, it can be a bit of a wrench to part with them. Steel yourself — or better still, make enough to keep some for yourself.

Winter chutneys go beautifully with a holiday ham, meat or game pie, or pâté en croûte. This super-simple date chutney (see recipe below) — a recipe from my mother, who used to make it every Christmas — is a double pleasure because it’s just a leisurely chopping and mixing job. There’s no cooking at all, so the apartment is not invaded with penetrating vinegary fumes. It benefits from keeping for a few weeks, so the flavors ripen nicely and will last for several months.

If you have herbs growing in your garden or terrace, the more robust perennial ones like rosemary, thyme and winter savory will still be good to go. Throw some in a food processor with sea salt and grind till fine for a wonderfully aromatic herby salt (see recipe below). The color when freshly ground is a delicate herbaceous green. This will fade after a few weeks, but the flavor lingers on. Add a note to the gift label with serving suggestions: It’s wonderful scattered over roast vegetables either before they go into the oven or as they come out (for even more flavor) or sprinkled onto focaccia or other bread before baking.

The softer, more delicate herbs work best in a moist mix like pesto. Instead of the usual basil-pine nut combo, try one with pumpkin seeds, loads of flat-leaf parsley and grated Parmesan or Grana Padano, whizzed together to a verdant paste. A bright green blob floated on top of deep orange pumpkin soup is a thing of beauty, or you can stir it into pasta or risotto or serve with cold turkey, duck breasts or grilled fish.

Around Christmas here in Alsace, France, on the border with Switzerland and Germany, baking reaches fever pitch at this time of year. Whether you visit friends at home, buy bread at the baker’s or attend the local hunt, you will be plied with Guetzli (Switzerland), bredele (Alsace) or Weihnachtsbrödle (southern Germany) at every turn. And here I have to own up to my sad little secret: I really, really don’t care for them and find that, at a time of major carb-overload, most are just not worth the calories (for me). However, I do make an honorable exception for Brunsli (see recipe below), moist, dark chocolate, almond-laden cookies laced with Kirsch brandy from Basel, Switzerland.

Finally, if life gives you lemons, make citrons confits, or salted lemons (see recipe below), which will bring a golden Mediterranean glow to your kitchen and make an especially welcome midwinter gift. In this recipe, from chef Thierry Voisin, former chef at Les Crayères in Reims, France, the lemons are first blanched, then packed into jars and covered with a sweet-salty syrup. They are a bit softer and less briny than the kinds packed in a jar with kosher salt, and they’re ready to use sooner than the salt-packed quarters. The finely diced peel (discard the pith) gives a bright, zesty lift to meat stews, tagines, couscous and all manner of vegetable dishes.

Fresh (Uncooked) Date Chutney

Fresh (Uncooked) Date Chutney. Credit: Sue Style

Fresh (Uncooked) Date Chutney. Credit: Sue Style

Prep time: 10 minutes (15, if you don’t use a food processor)

Total time: 10 to 15 minutes plus 2 to 3 weeks of maturing

Yield: Makes 4 1-pound (450-gram) jars


1 pound (450 grams) pitted dates

1 pound (450 grams) raisins or sultanas

1 pound (450 grams) apples

1 pound (450 grams) onions

1 pound (450 grams) brown or raw sugar

1 tablespoon salt

Plenty of freshly ground pepper

1/2 teaspoon cayenne

2 cups (1/2 liter) cider vinegar or wine vinegar


1. Put the pitted dates and raisins or sultanas in a food processor.

2. Quarter and core the apples (don’t peel) and chop them roughly.

3. Add the apples to the food processor along with the peeled and chopped onions.

4. Add brown or raw sugar, salt, pepper, cayenne and vinegar and process thoroughly till quite finely chopped and well mixed. (Alternatively, chop dates, raisins/sultanas, apples and onions finely together, then tip them into a bowl and stir in the sugar, salt, pepper, cayenne and vinegar.)

5. Spoon into clean, dry jars and label.

Note: The chutney is best when matured for a couple of weeks, and it will keep for several months.

Herby Salt

Prep time: 10 minutes

Total time: 10 minutes

Yield: 2 4-ounce (100-gram) jars


1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, stripped off stalks

1 tablespoon winter savory leaves, stripped off stalks

10 sage leaves, torn

7 ounces (200 grams) sea salt (sel de Guérande or similar) or kosher salt


Put the thyme, savory and sage leaves in a food processor, add the salt and process till fine. It will turn a beautiful jade green color. This will fade after a week or two, but the flavor will remain hauntingly herby.

Pumpkin Seed and Parsley Pesto

Pumpkin Seed and Parsley Pesto. Credit: Sue Style

Pumpkin Seed and Parsley Pesto. Credit: Sue Style

Prep time: 10 minutes

Total time: 10 minutes

Yield: about 1 cup pesto


1 good bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only (about 1 ounce, or 30 grams)

2 tablespoons hulled green pumpkin seeds

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan or Grana Padano

Pinch of salt

1 small clove garlic, mashed

6 tablespoons olive oil


1. Put parsley leaves, pumpkin seeds, cheese, salt and garlic in a blender.

2. Blend until well-chopped, stopping to scrape down every now and then — add a little water if necessary to make the blades turn.

3. Pour in the olive oil in a steady stream and continue blending till very smooth, scraping down if necessary.

4. Tip into a dish or jar and cover tightly.

5. The pesto will keep in the fridge, unopened, for up to a month. Once broached, cover with a thin layer of olive oil to exclude air.

Basler Brunsli

Basler Brunsli. Credit: Sue Style

Basler Brunsli. Credit: Sue Style

Prep time: 25 minutes (plus 1 hour to refrigerate the dough and 1 hour to allow the Brunsli to dry out before baking).

Cook time: 5 minutes

Total time: 2 hours 30 minutes

Yield: Makes 20 to 30, depending on size


4 ounces (100 grams) dark chocolate, (Lindt Excellence, for example)

5 ounces (150 grams) sugar, plus extra for rolling out dough

8 ounces (250 grams) ground almonds

2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 egg whites

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons Kirsch


1. Melt the chocolate in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water (or microwave for 1 to 2 minutes). Stir till smooth, then set aside till cooled but still melted.

2. Mix together in a large bowl the sugar, ground almonds, flour, cocoa powder and cinnamon.

3. Beat the egg whites in a bowl with a pinch of salt till snowy but still creamy — don’t overbeat or they will be hard to incorporate smoothly.

4. Fold the egg whites into the dry ingredients.

5. Stir in the cooled, melted chocolate and Kirsch and press the mixture together to form a firm dough. (It’s a good idea to use latex gloves because the dough is very sticky.)

6. Refrigerate the dough for 1 hour.

7. Sprinkle a working surface with sugar (do not use flour) and roll or pat out the dough to about half an inch (1 centimeter) thick.

8. Cut into shapes with cookie cutters (hearts, Christmas trees, half-moons etc.) and lay them on a baking sheet lined with non-stick baking parchment. Recycle any trimmings and cut out more shapes.

9. Leave the unbaked Brunsli at room temperature for 1 hour to dry out a little, otherwise they fall apart when baked.

10. Heat the oven to 475 degrees F (240 degrees C) and bake Brunsli for 5 minutes — they will turn a shade paler and start to dry out a bit around the edges, but should remain moist in the middle.

11. Remove Brunsli from the oven and let cool on a rack.

12. Once cool, pack in cellophane bags and tie with pretty ribbons, or store in an airtight tin.

Salt-Preserved Lemons

Salt-preserved Lemons. Credit: Sue Style

Salt-preserved Lemons. Credit: Sue Style

Prep time: 5 minutes

Cook time: 15 minutes

Total time: 20 minutes, plus 2 to 3 weeks’ maturing

Yield: Makes 4 preserved lemons.


4 lemons, untreated

4 ounces (100 grams) salt

5 ounces (150 grams) sugar

2 cups (1/2 liter) water

3 to 4 sprigs of fresh thyme


1. Put the lemons in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring the water to a boil.

2. When the water boils, tip it away; repeat the process twice more.

3. Press the drained lemons firmly into a Mason or Kilner glass jar.

4. In the same pan, dissolve the salt and sugar in 2 cups of water and pour it (hot) over the lemons.

5. Push the thyme down into the liquid.

6. Snap the lid shut while the lemons are still hot.

7. Cool, refrigerate for 2 to 4 weeks before using (or bestowing on favored friends). The lemons will keep for several months.

Main image: An herbed salt. Credit: Sue Style

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United States Of Artisans: 51 Edible Holiday Gifts To Send /gifts-2/united-states-artisans-51-edible-holiday-gifts-send/ /gifts-2/united-states-artisans-51-edible-holiday-gifts-send/#respond Mon, 08 Dec 2014 10:00:16 +0000 /?p=57397 Edibles, such as this package from Mitten Crate in Michigan, make great holiday gifts. Credit: Mitten Crate

You can’t go wrong with edible gifts at the holidays. Edibles send strong messages of sharing, goodwill, pride-of-place and uniqueness, while not cluttering up the recipient’s house for the rest of their lives. And for family and friends who cannot travel to you, a place-based edible always fits the bill.

Every state (and the nation’s capital) has a product just waiting to be discovered, sent and devoured.

Alabama: Goat cheese plays nicely with so many foods, especially the South’s pimento peppers. For a place-based kick and exciting centerpiece for a holiday cheese plate, try Bella Chevre‘s award-winning goat-cheese based pimento spread, more than a few steps up from the usual pimento cheese.

Alaska: Every holiday feast calls for a smoked salmon spread. But most seafood’s quality gets lost in the supply chain. Not so with 2 Sisters Seafood, located right on the wharf in Kenai. If sending a whole salmon filet feels too imposing, try a gift basket with shelf-stable smoked salmon products.

Arizona: The scions of Barry Goldwater have been slicing and dicing Arizona’s best fresh tomatoes, fruits, peppers and spices since 1989 to make Goldwater salsas. At the holidays, get a great gift package with four original sauces and the award-winning Bisbee barbecue sauce.

Arkansas: You could go for an entire gift basket from Kilwin’s sweets store, or you could opt for the classic Saltwater Taffy, with holiday packages featuring peppermint, eggnog, gingerbread and sugarplum flavors.

California: For a real surprise for your foodie friends, send them one of the infused products from Sonoma Syrup Co. Karin Campion crafts her infused syrups in small batches, creating perfection in syrups such as vanilla bean extract, Meyer lemon, mint, lavender, lime and salt caramel.

Colorado: The state’s distilling revolution is in full swing and is getting a kick with Cocktail Punk bitters, with flavors such as anise and fennel-layered orange, sage and mint in an Alpine-themed bitter, a cherry cocktail bitter that will make you forget syrupy grenadine forever.

Connecticut: For 20 years, Westport-based Biscotti Bites has been baking tasty little almond cookies perfect for serving with an afternoon coffee. Made using only good-for-you ingredients, they now come in almond, lemon and cocoa.

Delaware: Dolle’s saltwater taffy is the classic best and made for noshing even if you’re not beachside. The holidays bring all kinds of stocking stuffers, such as pumpkin spice taffy, deluxe Christmas misty mints and gummy Christmas trees and snowmen.

District of Columbia: The nation’s capital is indeed a state — of bliss — with the holiday package from Karen Mary Confectionary, which produces artisanal marshmallows in a five-flavor gift package: Classic Vanilla, Pumpkin Pie, Peppermint, Egg Nog, and Butterscotch, and Caramel Classic.

Florida: You could win hearts with any of the homemade cookies from 5th Avenue Confectionary, in Naples, but for a quintessentially Florida feel, send the key lime macadamia nut cookies. These are some well-traveled cookies, rich, buttery, with a zesty lime twinge and smooth white chocolate.

Georgia: The gold standard by which other honeys are measured, The Savannah Bee Company’s  Tupelo Honey is great in all of its forms —  raw, honeycombed, or even in body care products — but nothing beats a slow river of gold fresh from a bottle.

Hawaii: Lots of chocolatiers in the United States source directly from cocoa plantations. Waimeia Chocolate Company, on the Big Island, is its own. Try its 70 percent estate cacao truffles with macadamia nuts, with fruit undertones and a velvet finish.

Idaho: From sturgeon nurtured in the waters of Hagerman comes America’s contribution to the world caviar market, Tsar Nicoulai. The James Beard-award-winning company’s masterful harvesting techniques capture the distinctive, palate-cleansing, refined pop with a buttery aftertaste.

Illinois: When you’re Rare Bird, a jam is not just a jam but a work of art. Elizabeth Madden makes preserves in the French tradition with flavors  such as cranberry Clementine, Meyer lemon rosemary and passion fruit curd. Her Black Label exclusive flavors come in tiny batches and sell fast.

Indiana: With a pedigree hailed in Bon Appetit and Food and Wine, Chris and Mollie Eley brought some four-star experience to their meatery in Indianapolis, The Smoking Goose. The company doesn’t send everything, but its salumi gift box brings together the best of its craft.

Iowa: Chefs around the country call on La Quercia, in tiny Norwalk, for the best American prosciutto around. But recent years has seen the pork artisans add a whole array of other products that would surprise: spicy salami, rolled pancetta and a silky lardo made from back fat.

Kansas: PT’s Coffee Roasting Co. is truly a rags-to-richly-roasted story, going from a tiny espresso shop in 1993 to a purveyor of single origin roasts from around the globe today. Try the PT’s Sample Box of the Holiday Blend for an introduction to what this industry exemplar can do.

‘Cadillac of pecans’ for edible holiday gifts

Kentucky: The Kentucky Nut Corporation has been producing the “Cadillac of pecans” since 1940, and puts together a stellar array of holiday-themed nuts such as cinnamon glazed and pralines. Perfect for noshing at holiday cocktail parties.

Louisiana: With so much to choose from New Orleans, pick something that makes holiday breakfast easier with Café du Monde’s beignet mix, the secret to pre-mixed fluffy Louisiana-style doughnuts. Pair it with any of the coffees for a breakfast-themed gift basket.

Maine: The last remaining traditional stone-ground American Mustard mill, Rayes, of Eastport, grinds out yellow and brown mustards according to traditional techniques. Try its Hot Five gift pack of five spicy mustards for heat-seeking loved ones.

Maryland: For holidays, sometimes easy and pre-made is best. That goes for nothing more than for breakfast, for which we recommend Michele’s Granola, made fresh in small batches in Timonium. Seasonal varieties such as cranberry pecan carry a festive flair.

Massachusetts: The season demands a sprinkling of red, and Willows Cranberries, of Wareham, delivers. Gift boxes include a mix of cranberry sweets, spices, teas, chutneys and syrups featuring the face-puckering berries from the bogs.

Michigan: When in Michigan, why pick just one? Especially when you can order a Mitten Crate, from two young entrepreneurs who ship everything from bourbon and cherry products, Slow Jams, hop soda, single origin coffees and saltwater taffy, all made in the wolverine state.

Minnesota: Perfect for college-aged kids or young adults heading back after the holidays, Native Harvest’s Wild Rice blends are harvested directly from the Minnesota Lakes by tribal members, nuttier and healthier than grocery store alternatives.

Mississippi: Mississippi does condiments like no other. Get your classics such as Carolina chow chow and low-country style pumpkin preserves or go for the Muscadine chutney from Farmer’s Daughter Brand Pickles and Preserves.

Missouri: Christopher Elbow’s Artisanal Chocolates look like gift packages unto themselves. For the holidays, turn to the gift collections featuring gingerbread, champagne, winter-spiced caramel, egg nog, peppermint and rum raisin.

Montana: If you’ve never tried a huckleberry, Huckleberry Haven is a great place to start. The berries, similar in taste and nature to blueberries, only grow at elevations above 2,000 feet and have long been used in traditional medicine by native peoples of the Northwester United States.

Nebraska: Orders top out a week before Christmas for Nebraska Bison, high protein, lower in fat and raised responsibly on a ranch by Randy and Jane Miller without the use of steroids, antibiotics or growth hormones. Try the gift guide or, if you’ve got your main meal covered, get the jerky.

Nevada: The state may not be known for its artisanal foods (many joke that the state food is the buffet), but it is home to one of the best one-stop artisanal online food sites, selling everything artisanal under the sun: caviar, coffee, tea, chocolates, preserves, cheeses and more.

Much-needed herbal teas

New Hampshire: When all is said and done, you’re really just going to need a cup of tea from Portsmouth’s White Heron Tea and Coffee Community, which ships organic teas, including 15 varieties of much-needed herbal teas around the country.

New Jersey: Take a load off the holiday baking — and really blow away the cookie-lovers in your family — with Fat Boy’s Cookie Dough. Cranberry nut is the seasonal choice, but most everyone would really just rather have good old chocolate chip.

New Mexico: For a gift that can sit on a shelf, and beautifully, try balsamic vinegar from Traditional Aceto Balsamico of Monticello. Grown from organic estate grapes in New Mexico, it’s made using old-world methods and aged in seven fragrant woods.

New York: Brooklyn abounds with artisanal food producers, but few have elevated their craft quite so exceptionally as Mast Brothers chocolate makers, whose gorgeously packaged chocolate bars, many of them single-origin, including a new line made with goat’s and sheep’s milk.

North Carolina: Mark Oberbay turned his passion for discovering new flavor combinations into Big Spoon Roasters, makers of nut butters using fresh runner variety peanuts from the Carolinas, wildflower honeys from the the Piedmont, local pecans, California Mission-variety almonds and pristine sea salt.

North Dakota: Choke cherries, native to the prairies of North Dakota, add a festive punch with pride of place. High in antioxidants and mouth twistingly tart, Dakota Seasoning’s chokecherry jam will give any North Dakotan a Proustian moment.

Ohio: Askinosie dark milk. Bangkok peanut. Brambleberry crisp. Ndali Estate vanilla bean. Triumph (that’s absinthe ice cream with hand-piped meringue kisses and crushed bitter orange candy). Or just refuse to choose entirely from Jeni’s Ice Cream and join the pint club.

Oklahoma: Here’s an idea whose time has come: slathering a Christmas bird in Head Country  barbecue sauce. Try the mix-and-match case of 12 and you’ll be giving the gift of barbecue expertise this holiday season.

Oregon: If you think a salt can’t change you, you’ve never tried Portland-based Jacobsen Sea Salt, harvested from Netarts Bay on the Oregon Coast. A favorite of chefs around the country, the salts come in flavors such as Oregon pinot noir, vanilla, white truffle, and good old flaked, a must for every ambitious home cook.

Pennsylvania: Bacon. Yes, not because it was trendy in 2007, but because it’s the best when cured perfectly and sliced thin. Or take any of the other traditional Pennsylvania German products from S. Clyde Weaver, which has been smoking meats and creating farmstead cheeses since 1920.

Rhode Island: The state is home to a Humble Pie you’d be proud to eat. The company makes classic pies with a twist (think pumpkin hazelnut) using exceptional local ingredients such as Aquidneck Honey and maple sugar from the Bats of Bedlam Maple Farm.

South Carolina: In between meals, reach for the sweet stuff known as Carolina Crack, one of the state’s best peanut brittles, a fluffy brittle made in small batches by Jake Lyerly.

South Dakota: For a gift of meat that does some good, South Dakota’s Wild Idea Buffalo-meat gift boxes offer an excellent variety of products from grass-fed buffalo that roams the region’s prairie. It is tender, juicy, and grassy, as befits its pedigree.

Tennessee: The market keeps at Marché Artisan Foods in Nashville puts together an excellent basket featuring regional specialties such as Olive and Sinclair chocolate bars and brittles, Nashville Jam Company jellies, Williams Honey Farm honeys, Falls Mills flour, grits and Sunday Morning pancake mixes. Call to order a basket.

Texas: In lieu of BBQ sauce, try Dallas’s Mozzarella Company. Renowned cheese maker Paula Lambert puts together an exceptional cheese selection inspired by the region, and for the DIYers in the family, she will ship a make-your-own mozzarella kit.

Utah: In a state where other vices are often verboten, share the love at the holidays from Amano Artisan Chocolate with a 70 percent Dos Rios bar (or a sampler set). Sourced from the Dominican Republic, it’s one of the most unique on the planet, with chocolate evoking cinnamon and orange.

Vermont: Dragonfly Sugarworks is the epitome of what many Vermont syrup companies do best: work year-round to craft a range of graded syrup. For something extra special, try the Vermont Fancy, a light amber syrup with a delicate flavor perfect for pancakes, crepes or ice creams.

Virginia: Route 11 does a distinct American potato chip — made in small batches, perfect crispiness, real seasonings such as barbecue and classic salt and vinegar and a sweet potato chip like none other make the company one whose chips get sent around the world.

Edible and drinkable

Washington: If your only experience of Washington-roasted beans is that mermaid-clad Venti, try Caffe Vitta, which is gaining  national cred as a roaster of farm-direct single origin coffees from around the globe. The roaster also has a sweet collaboration pairing its coffees with local Theo Chocolates.

West Virginia: West Virginia Fruit and Berry uses fruit fresh from the mountain to fulfill any possible jam needs: blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, cherry, all made using no corn syrup. No-dairy apple and peach butters are a fresh change for those who eschew milk.

Wisconsin: To choose one Wisconsin cheese maker is an impossible task, but Roelli’s Cheese Haus, with a 100-year-history of making European-styled cheeses in Wisconsin, has upped its game in recent years with national awards for its Dumbarton Blue and Little Mountain alpine cheese.

Wyoming: Life in the West demands a certain level of heartiness. Enter Jackson Hole’s Bunnery Natural Foods, with a range of four granolas, sunflower-seeded oatmeal, coconut-vanilla pancake and waflle mix and a number of other choices for time-strapped holiday hosts.

What about you? Do you have a favorite artisanal food item from your state?

Main photo: Edibles, such as this package from Mitten Crate in Michigan, make great holiday gifts. Credit: Mitten Crate

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Maple-Nut Fudge: Easy as Pie for Holiday Gifts /cooking/maple-nut-fudge-easy-as-pie-for-holiday-gifts/ /cooking/maple-nut-fudge-easy-as-pie-for-holiday-gifts/#respond Wed, 05 Nov 2014 10:00:12 +0000 /?p=54430 Maple-hazelnut fudge. Credit: Charles Perry

As we slide into the holiday season, my mind turns toward maple: maple syrup, maple frosting — and maple fudge.

The world has quite enough chocolate fudge, in my heretical opinion. Chocolate is certainly majestic, but maple has something wonderful and poetical to say for itself. Nobody who has had a bite of maple fudge will ever turn another down. It’s the ideal Thanksgiving sweet, the boss of all stocking stuffers.

These days, a lot of people seem to think that fudge making is so difficult it has to be left to professionals. Oh, fudge, I say. Homemade fudge is an American tradition. Nineteenth-century college girls are said to have invented chocolate fudge — apparently without spoiling their grade-point average.

The anatomy of a beloved candy

Culinarily speaking, fudge is related to caramel because it involves cooking a dairy product (milk, half-and-half or cream) to the point that it undergoes the Maillard reaction, which produces appetizing browned flavors. Specifically, fudge is related to the 19th-century Mexican candy called panocha, which included the decisive step of stirring in chopped nuts.

Fudge has a luxurious texture because it is whipped as it cools to prevent the formation of large crystals. Small crystals melt easily and appealingly, and a fat-based ingredient — butter or chocolate (or both) — adds its own lusciousness. The faint bitterness of the nuts takes the curse off the overwhelming sweetness of the candy, which is why nuts have become all but universal in fudge recipes.

For maple fudge, the most common nuts are walnuts or pecans, which are both excellent. On general principle, I would first toast them at 350 F until they can easily be pierced by a needle, about 7 minutes. I have also tried toasted coconut as a substitute, which is pretty good, though I was surprised to find that the coconut flavor dominated the maple more than I liked. Ultimately, I decided I favored the version made with toasted hazelnuts. Because, face it, hazelnuts are awesome.

It’s not as hard as you think

Many fudge recipes call for a pastry marble to cool the syrup on, which can make those who don’t own one uneasy. So just use a baking pan instead. (I wouldn’t recommend a cookie sheet without a raised edge, however, because if it isn’t perfectly level, the hot syrup can drip right off.) You do need a good thermometer, but these days any serious cook has one.

In short, the following recipe is somewhat flexible. You can cook the syrup to 240 F or so; you can let it cool to 105 F before beating it; you can beat it longer than the specified time. The crucial thing is that the syrup must reach the soft-ball stage, 238 F at sea level. (If you live at an elevation above 3,500 feet, you are probably familiar with the degree to which you must adjust your temperatures.)

Maple-Nut Fudge

Prep time: 5 to 10 minutes

Cooking time: 30 to 35 minutes

Total time: About 2¾ hours (includes cooling time)

Yield: 25 to 36 pieces


4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, divided, softened

3 cups sugar

¾ cup maple syrup

1½ cups half-and-half

3 tablespoons corn syrup

Pinch salt

2 teaspoons vanilla

1½ cups roughly chopped nuts — pecans, walnuts or toasted hazelnuts — toasted for 5 to 7 minutes at 350 F

1. Line an 8-inch baking dish with aluminum foil (make sure that the edges extend past the rim) and grease with 1 tablespoon softened butter.

2. In a 3-quart pot over low heat, stir together the sugar, maple syrup, half-and-half, corn syrup and salt until smooth. Continue to stir until the sugar is dissolved, 5 minutes.

3. Insert the sensor of a candy thermometer into the mixture. Increase the heat to bring to a boil and cook without stirring until the syrup reaches the soft-ball state (238 F), about 15 minutes. The syrup will foam up alarmingly but settle down by 225 F. Warning: The heated syrup can cause severe burnsWear an apron and use oven mitts.

4. Remove the thermometer probe from the pan and pour the fudge onto a pastry marble (if you don’t have one, use a 12-by-18-inch baking pan sprayed with nonstick spray). Divide the remaining 3 tablespoons of softened butter into several pieces and dot them here and there on top.

5. Clean the thermometer sensor and stick it anywhere in the fudge. When the temperature measures 110 F (about 5 minutes on a marble, 10 or 12 minutes on a baking pan), scrape the fudge into a mixer bowl with the mixer paddle attached, add the vanilla and beat until the fudge is thick and losing its shine, 5 to 10 minutes.

6. Mix in the nuts. Turn the fudge into the prepared baking dish and let it cool to room temperature, 2 hours.

7. Remove the fudge from the dish by lifting the edges of the aluminum foil and transfer it to a work surface. Rub a chef’s knife with a piece of paper towel wetted with vegetable oil and make 4 cuts in one direction and then 4 cuts in the other, or 5 cuts in each direction, re-oiling the knife as necessary. Wrap the pieces in waxed paper.

If it is not to be eaten immediately, store the fudge in an air-tight container (it can otherwise absorb moisture and soften, particularly in damp weather). It will keep several weeks in a refrigerator, but generally speaking, it’s a gift best given fresh.

Main photo: Maple-hazelnut fudge. Credit: Charles Perry

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Cheese With ‘Bits’: Product Of Inventive, Or Insane, Mind? /drinking/cheese-bits-product-inventive-insane-mind/ /drinking/cheese-bits-product-inventive-insane-mind/#comments Mon, 08 Sep 2014 09:00:32 +0000 /?p=50399 New on the market in the United Kingdom from Marks & Spencer: White Stilton® with dried sour cherries and a candied orange peel coating, left, and Cornish Cruncher Cheddar with white balsamic vinegar and red bell pepper with a red bell pepper coating. Credit: Clarissa Hyman

There’s something inescapably tacky about the thought of Cheddar cheese blended with  pickled onion or smoked ham and mustard, like a Ploughman’s lunch without the hard work. Nonetheless, blended cheese or cheese with extra “bits” (technically known as cheese with additives, although the industry is sensitive to the term), erupts over British cheese counters like lava down Krakatoa.

Such cheese with bits look like a larder gone hideously mad or a product of the sorcerer’s apprentice on acid. Over the years, I have had the misfortune to encounter cheese with piccalilli, garlic and mushroom, black olives and sun-dried tomatoes, caramelized onions, asparagus and leek, Guinness, Worcestershire sauce and pecan nuts, not to mention clashing varieties cemented together in weird layers. Colby jack or Cojack (as I like to call it) is an all-American combination of Colby and Monterey jack blended together before pressing that makes a “fun” snack. Right.

Phew, it’s all as cheesy as a Barry White song — and sells equally as well.

Ilchester has been a leader in the U.K. specialty cheese scene ever since they launched their Beer Cheese in 1962. Today, their selection also includes Mexicana™ chili cheese, Cheddar with Pickled Onion & Chives, and Marmite™ Cheddar. Yes, you either love it or hate it.

Booze as a ‘bit’ in your cheese

And, what is it with cheese with booze – on either side of the Atlantic? Red Windsor, marbled with red wine or Port (and coloring), may be of ancient lineage but frankly is an insult to Bordeaux and looks like it has leprosy. And don’t get me started on Cahill’s Irish Porter Cheddar: once tasted, never forgotten … but not in a good way. And there’s also Cheddar and Whisky, Chile Lime & Tequila Cheddar, Caramelized Onion and Rioja Cheddar.

In the U.S., you can find a Chocolate Stout Cheddar from Oregon or a nice Merlot BellaVitano from Wisconsin. Are we all so desperate for a drink?

Dessert cheeses also have a following: Lemon Crumble, Cheddar with Fruitcake, Wensleydale with Mango and Ginger. At least it makes life easier for those who never know whether to serve the cheese before or after the pudding.

There are combinations that are meant to go together but such inventions as White Stilton with Apricots or Blueberries and Wensleydale with Mango and Ginger have no natural, logical affinity. Wensleydale with Cranberries, for example, marries sharp-tasting fruit with rich-flavored cheese in a disturbing combination that is inexplicably popular. Personally, I’d demand a divorce.

Cheese with date and walnut, apple and celery, or Thai spices feeds an obsession with novelty for novelty’s sake, a mass flavor-of-the-month mentality in a pick ‘n’ mix culture. Block-produced Cheshire with pear and almonds is as different from Appleby’s legendary hand-crafted production as, well, chalk from cheese.

Part of the cheese counter at Sainsbury's supermarket in Manchester, United Kingdom. Credit: Clarissa Hyman

Part of the cheese counter at Sainsbury’s supermarket in Manchester, England. Credit: Clarissa Hyman

Thankfully, peanut butter hard cheese has never made it past the dairy door — as far as I know. But it is probably just a matter of time.

Good cheese as a base is key

On the other hand, where there is a good cheesemaker you’re more likely to find a good cheese with bits: the delicate network of soft green veins that distinguishes Fowlers Traditional and Original Green Derby comes from natural sage, not lurid artificial coloring. Dutch Gouda with cumin seeds is a centuries-old, tried-and-tested combination. An artisan Cornish Gouda with Honey and Clover is now being made by a Dutch family in Cornwall (my jury-of-one is still out on this).

Dartmoor Chilli, Meldon (with English mustard and Ale) and Chipple (with spring onions) are all made on the base of the well-esteemed, sweet, mild Curworthy cheese. The Sharpham Estate’s Rustic is flavored with chives and garlic; and Wedmore, made by scattering chives through the center of each round of aged Caerphilly at Westcombe Dairy in Somerset captures the flavors of the lush Somerset meadows.

There can be a fine line between those cheeses that contain bits and those infused with an extra dimension of flavor, such as Cornish Yarg, wrapped with nettle or wild garlic leaves, or the coating of fresh herbs that add interest and contrast to soft cheese such as award-winning Rosary Garlic and Herb Goats Cheese. And the best smoked and washed rind cheeses, which are brushed with wine or cider, are about discretion not domination.

One problem with cheese with bits is the suspicion that it is a way of adding “extra value” to inferior, poorly textured, mass-produced cheese without adding extra care. No manufacturer will ever plead guilty, but the fact is: If the quality of the base cheese is poor, whatever you add won’t make it any better.

Cheese as an entrée point

But as fast as flavors come, they also seem to go.

These additives are fashion products. Maybe this sort of fun cheese can give younger folks, for many of whom cheese is just something that drips off a burger, an entrée into the cheese world and will lead them to better products — much as has happened in wine. Indeed, it may be that opening up the market, adding range and variety, may even save some standard cheeses from decline.

Maybe. But I still think the person who put Jamaican jerk sauce into cheese should be forced to eat it every day.

Main photo: New on the market in the United Kingdom from Marks & Spencer: White Stilton® with dried sour cherries and a candied orange peel coating, left, and Cornish Cruncher Cheddar with white balsamic vinegar and red bell pepper with a red bell pepper coating. Credit: Clarissa Hyman

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How Personal Cookbooks Can Say Something More /cooking/personal-favorite-cookbooks-and-biscotti-recipe/ /cooking/personal-favorite-cookbooks-and-biscotti-recipe/#comments Tue, 15 Jul 2014 09:00:58 +0000 /?p=46895 Chocolate Chip-Pecan Biscotti. Credit: Barbara Haber

I am planning to compile a personal cookbook — not for publication, but rather as a private collection of favorite recipes to give to family and friends. The idea has been brewing ever since I got a phone call from a son at college who wanted to know how to make “skinny fries,” a potato recipe he’d grown up with. At other times I get requests from friends for how to make a particular dish they had at my house. Although some of the recipes I will be compiling are for family dishes that were passed down to me, many come from cookbooks or magazines, recipes I probably tweaked before deciding they were perfect. What makes my cookbook personal, of course, is that it will reflect my particular tastes in food, leaving out ingredients I do not like, and going heavy on the types of dishes I love.

We all know that the world has become flooded with recipes so that selecting the best of them is challenging and time consuming. I have spent years accumulating thick files of favorites I culled after having tried so many other recipes that were similar but not as good. So I see my collection as a worthwhile service to loved ones by offering them what I consider to be the best of the best. It took years, for instance, to find the perfect chocolate cake, a dessert I now bring to potluck gatherings where I am always besieged for the recipe. I also have a biscotti recipe that experienced biscotti eaters tell me is the best they have tasted. I have recipes that were handed down by the women in my family, and passing these along gives me a sense of continuity and order. These include recipes for a winter soup made with beans and meat, and a meatloaf made light and fluffy because of its secret ingredient — a grated raw potato.

I routinely hear tales from friends who regret not getting their grandmother’s recipe for a dish they continually think about, but don’t know how to make because no one in the family thought to jot it down. It would have required trailing after grandma in her kitchen, and managing to measure and write down what she instinctively threw into a pot. I have even heard stories about grandmothers who will not give out their recipes, or if they do, will deliberately leave out key ingredients. Their motivation seems to be the hope that family members will continue to visit and eat what they cook. My expectation for myself is to have it both ways — to continue to please my visiting family members with the dishes they love and then to hand them all copies of the recipes.

It’s ‘CSI: The Kitchen’

I have seen compilations of family recipes assembled by other people, and they tell me a lot about the person who put the collection together. They add up to what I think of as a food profile. Just as FBI profilers can speculate about perpetrators of crimes by analyzing clues left behind, I feel I can gain insights into a person by examining the foods they choose to eat. But the work of a food profiler is far more pleasant — investigating noodle puddings and fruit pies rather than bullet holes and blood spatters. I have noticed, for instance, that books filled with dishes for grilled meats strike me as man pleasers or may even have been created by men. Ethnic backgrounds are also easy to spot — loads of pasta recipes with tomato sauce suggest Southern Italy, while yeast breads and coffeecakes using cardamom say Scandinavia.

Regional recipes are striking when, for instance, books recommending sweet tea and directions for such desserts as triple-layer coconut cake and sweet potato pie announce old-time Southern cooking. Recipes using such stylish grains as farro and quinoa and a wide variety of herbs and spices suggest an adventurous eater, while those relying mainly on salt and pepper for seasoning strongly hint that the eater has conservative tastes. And there are subtle clues. If many of the recipes yield eight or more servings, I deduce that the person either has a large family or entertained frequently, and the reverse is true. Recipes serving just two indicate a more private lifestyle.

My personal food profile

If I were to be food-profiled, the absence of cilantro, the herb people seem to either love or hate, would herald my aversion to the thing. Also noticeable would be my preference for cooking with olive oil rather than butter, and that an indifference to butter and cream carries over to desserts that omit whipped cream. Recipes for candy and cookies will lord it over puddings and tarts. My book will contain anecdotes, tributes to my sources for recipes, and nostalgic comments about the people whose recipes I am reproducing. I would hope to be seen as someone with a generous spirit, but most of all I would like to be seen as someone with a respect for history. I long ago learned that history is not just about the actions of presidents and kings but about the aspirations of regular people, and personal cookbooks can be a key to understanding how these people really lived.

Chocolate Chip-Pecan Biscotti

(Adapted from “Cooking With Les Dames D’Escoffier” cookbook)

Prep time: 30 minutes (this includes the slicing before the second baking)
Chilling time for dough: 3 hours
First baking: 45 minutes
Resting time between bakings: 1 hour
Second baking: 25 minutes
Total time: 5 hours 40 minutes

Yield: 48 biscotti


3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature
1⅓ cups granulated sugar
3 large eggs divided
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 tablespoons milk
1½ cups miniature chocolate chips
1½ cups chopped pecans


  1. Whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda in a medium bowl. Using an electric mixer, beat the butter and granulated sugar in a large bowl until blended. Add two of the eggs, one at a time, beating just to blend after each addition. Beat in the vanilla and milk, then the flour mixture. Stir in the chocolate chips and pecans.
  2. On a lightly floured surface, divide the dough into 3 equal portions. With lightly floured hands, form each portion into an 8-inch long log and flatten it to 2½ inches wide; place each log on a piece of plastic wrap large enough to cover the dough. Wrap in the plastic and chill for at least 3 hours or up to 3 days.
  3. Position oven rack in the upper third of the oven. Preheat oven to 325 F. Line a heavy, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Unwrap the logs of dough, leaving them sitting on the plastic. Beat the remaining egg well to make a glaze. Brush the tops of the logs with the glaze and place them on the parchment-lined sheet. Space them 2 to 3 inches apart since they will spread. Bake 45 to 50 minutes until golden brown and just firm to the touch. Let logs cool completely for at least an hour.
  4. For the second baking, heat oven to 300 F. Line one or two sheets with parchment paper. With a long serrated knife, cut the logs crosswise into ½ to ¾ inch slices. Arrange biscotti on the sheets, putting the ends cut side down. Bake for 15 minutes and then turn them over and bake for another 10 minutes. Cool and store.


Variation for cranberry-pecan biscotti: Omit chocolate chips, vanilla and milk. Add 1½ cups dried cranberries, 3 tablespoons lemon juice and 1½ tablespoons lemon zest. The rest of the directions are the same.

Main photo: Chocolate Chip-Pecan Biscotti. Credit: Barbara Haber

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