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Ethically Raised Heirloom Turkeys For Thanksgiving

Turkeys at Ham Sweet Farm in Williamston, Mich. Credit: Kate Spinillo

Turkeys at Ham Sweet Farm in Williamston, Mich. Credit: Kate Spinillo

On a long trip across America’s heartland, I spotted a pair of button eyes peering out at me from a passing semi truck full of livestock. The pig that I had locked eyes with was probably being taken to slaughter. I lost count of how many large-scale animal-transport trucks I saw while traveling Interstate 80 through farm country, each carrying animals, including turkeys for Thanksgiving, shoulder to shoulder, listless as wet carpet.

Those images made for a stunning contrast when I arrived at Ham Sweet Farm in Williamston, Mich., owned and operated by Kate Spinillo and her husband, Christian.

It looked so peacefully perfect that it might well be an artist-created movie set, from the goats sitting on a kiddie playhouse in a pen nearest the road, to the sweet yellow house with the wrap-around porch, to the pigs eagerly grunting and munching on leftover jack-o’-lanterns and enjoying scratches behind the ears, to the acres of oak and hickory that stretch out at the furthest reaches of the property.

Theirs is the idyllic farm that concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs) want you to picture when they advertise industrially-raised meat, the same type of  animals that were being transported in those interstate semis. But that sort of advertising is an illusion that attempts to mask the reality of how mass-market animals live and die.

The Spinillos say that putting the finest product out to market begins and ends with happy animals. Selling direct-to-customer and as part of a meat CSA, Ham Sweet Farm provides heritage breeds of pork, beef, chicken, turkey and eggs to their community, including restaurants and a food truck. Amazed by the fact that they are able to maintain their operation while they both work full-time jobs outside the farm, I asked Kate how Ham Sweet Farm came to be.

“It started simply enough, with both of us working on farms, more as an outlet and interest than anything else. But once you start, it gets into your blood. You want the work, the challenge, the tangible reward at the end of a day of work and problem-solving.

“It’s as much about the relationship you have with the land you’re working on or with, as it is about the animals you’re raising or the produce you’re growing. It all falls together into one panoramic picture of the way you want to live your life, and also the way you want the food you eat to live its life.”

While we were enjoying a drink on the front porch and taking in the cornfield across the street, the gang of turkeys strolled in front of us, seemingly with a group goal or destination. With an arresting blend of humor and salt in her voice, Spinillo pointed out the difference between pastured and CAFO turkeys.

“Our turkeys are pretty friendly, and like to climb out of their mobile fencing to parade around the house, the driveway, the shop, various barns, our neighbor’s house, the mailbox and occasionally our front porch.

“The toms also like to get out and torment our big Blue Slate tom, ‘Phil Collins,’ but the joke is on them, because he is a permanent resident of the farm. Being heritage breeds, they retain their abilities to fly, so some of them roost in the trees or on top of our garden fence posts at night. Industrially-raised turkeys grow so fast and have such large breasts that they can hardly walk, let alone fly, toward the end of their lives.”

She explained the turkeys consumers find in most stores are broad-breasted white turkeys, which take about 5 months to raise before they go to the butcher. The Spinillos’ birds, by contrast, hatch in the spring and grow for about nine months before slaughter. They’re smaller than typical turkeys you find in the grocery store. Butterball would consider them “average,” Kate said.

 

Turkeys roaming free at Ham Sweet Farm in Williamston, Mich. Credit: Kate Spinillo

Turkeys roaming free at Ham Sweet Farm in Williamston, Mich. Credit: Kate Spinillo

“The flavor of our turkey last year, though, was phenomenal. One family worried about the smaller size of our birds, and so purchased an extra breast to serve on Thanksgiving … no one ate it, because our pasture-raised turkey was just that good.”

In an age where some stores put turkeys on sale for as little as 50 cents a pound, the cost of a pasture-raised bird — $9 a pound for a whole turkey — might seem shockingly high to some, but it takes into account the value of what it takes to bring the animal to market.

“Other than pigs, which we are raising to three times the age of the average CAFO pig, turkeys are our greatest investment. Seventy percent of the cost of a Thanksgiving turkey is to cover hard feed costs; the other 30% should theoretically cover the cost of the bird itself, processing, equipment, and your time.”

The percentage is theoretic, she said, because of the amount of human labor it takes to care for them daily for nine months is quite great.

Deeply committed to being a part of the local economy, the Spinillos understand well that not everyone can afford their meat, and go to great lengths to meet the needs of their customers, even arranging payment plans and deliveries for families who need those options. Still, it causes them to flinch when someone tries to imply their product isn’t worth the price.

“People see your heritage bird pricing and balk, but they forget that a turkey is good for multiple meals,” Kate said. “Thanksgiving dinner, leftovers, and then you make soup and stock from the bones. Turkeys should not be a disposable dinner, and we don’t price them like they are.”

Spinillo suggests that one of the easiest and most budget-friendly ways to support a small farm like theirs is to learn to make use of less-popular cuts.

“What’s frustrating is that people love the idea of the farm, they love coming to visit, and I think they love the romantic idea of purchasing directly from the farm raising the meat (or eggs or produce). But everyone wants the cuts that they know — steaks, belly, eight-piece chicken.

“The parts that we cannot GIVE AWAY are things like poultry feet and necks (duck, chicken, turkey), gizzards of all kinds, pork and beef offal (liver, kidney, heart, tongue). These all represent some of the best and most nutritious eating on the animal, as well as the cheapest cuts, but much of it we end up eating ourselves because we cannot give it away, let alone sell it.”

Slow Cooker Turkey Neck Bone Broth

Prep time: 5 minutes

Total time: 24 hours

Yield: 8 cups

Ingredients

1 turkey neck

Any other bony pieces, including feet or tail

1 onion, halved

1 large parsnip, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks

10 whole peppercorns

2 bay leaves

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

10 cups water, or enough to generously cover the ingredients

Directions

1. Place all of the ingredients in a large slow cooker and heat them on low for 4 to 6 hours.

2. Pull out the turkey neck and any other bones that may have meat attached. Pick off the pieces of meat and save them for another meal. Return the bones to the slow cooker and let the bone broth cook on low for an additional 20 hours.

3. Strain out the bones, vegetables and spices. Let the bone broth cool to room temperature before storing it in the refrigerator. It should be quite gelatinous by the time it is chilled. Bone broth also takes well to being frozen and can be a go-to for holiday meals.

Main photo: Turkeys at Ham Sweet Farm in Williamston, Mich. Credit: Kate Spinillo



Zester Daily contributor Wendy Petty is a wild foods enthusiast dedicated to showing people how to transform abundant, "weedy" plants into free and nutritious kitchen staples. She is the foraging instructor at the Laughing Coyote Project, and shares her favorite wild foods from the Rocky Mountain region at Hunger and Thirst.

9 COMMENTS
  • Kate Spinillo 11·24·14

    Wow, thank you Wendy for writing such a wonderful story about us and our little farmstead! We are proud to be a small part of people’s Thanksgiving meals with their families, and so fortunate to be able to raise beautiful animals like these turkeys. They are now gone from our farm and residing in fridges in the homes of 24 families in Mid-Michigan. We’ll miss them! [But are looking forward to having one for Thanksgiving dinner in a few short days.] 🙂

  • heather Dubbs 11·24·14

    Great article. Great farm and great people Kate and Christian Spinillo. We need more farms like.

  • Christine Andersen 11·24·14

    There’s nothing average about a Ham Sweet Farm turkey! Last year’s was so good we got three this year. Turkey isn’t just for Thanksgiving. And yes it’s pricey compared to Butterball but they shouldn’t be compared at all, price or otherwise. A Spinillo turkey has been raised with affection, compassion and hard work and that is reflected in the taste. I do have one complaint about this article. I farm sit for them and can attest to the beauty of the farm and the animals. Not enough pictures showing them off!

  • Kathy Rowe 11·24·14

    Nice article. We are raising Royal Palms for market and haven’t quite settled on a price per pound. We live in very rural Kentucky where folks are downright poor for the most part. Our birds are pasture raised, eat what they want, go where they want (even escaping into the road one morning!) and sleep where they want. They follow me around like dogs and truly, I will be sad when they are sold. But that’s the circle of life, and hopefully my hen will lay more eggs so we can start the cycle again.

  • Julia Joun 11·24·14

    Fascinating article and very tempting recipe. Would like to hear about raising the other kinds of animals on the farm and how all the pieces fit together.

  • Wendy Petty 11·25·14

    I really enjoyed seeing the turkeys when I visited the farm. I like thinking that this week, happy people are picking up those same turkeys and they will be the star of the table in so many homes.

  • Dale 11·25·14

    I lived most of my adult life in Williamston but have never had the pleasure of hearing about the Spinillos. Are you new to the area? I’d love to see your place!

  • Susan Odom 11·26·14

    Great article! I really appreciate what Kate and Christian Spinillo are doing on their farm. I do some similar things on my farm. Kate brings up a good point about farms and consumers, raising meat and other food on a small farm system; not the large corporate system, is more expensive per animal/food unit. The Big plus is the food produced is so much better! Some customers are really beginning to understand the difference and know that in the end $9 per pound is a deal!

  • Kate Spinillo 11·26·14

    Hi Dale, we’d love to meet you and show you the farmstead! We have lived in Williamston for about a year and a half— I grew up in East Lansing, but we moved back after being in Colorado for a while. Feel free to send an email [info at hamsweetfarm dot com] or look us up on our facebook page [ https://www.facebook.com/HamSweetFarm/ ]. Hope you have a happy Thanksgiving!

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