Celeriac looks like Hannibal Lecter’s lunch. A pale and ghostly cerebellum with tangled dreadlocks, it is never going to win any beauty prizes. Prepossessing, it is not. Little wonder many shoppers give it a wide berth as it singularly fails to bear any resemblance to its slender green cousin and has the sort of looks only a mother vegetable could love.
Yet celery and celeriac are essentially the same plant, both descendants of wild celery. Plant breeding and cultivation from the 17th century onward, however, took them in different directions. Celery was destined to be sought after for its crisp, sweet stalks; celeriac for the large swollen base half-buried in the ground like a forgotten cannonball.
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Over the centuries, horticulturalists succeeded in turning a tiny root into a gnarled ball of intense but delicate celery flavor and fragrance. Despite these excellent qualities, celeriac has never really hit the big time. Still overlooked by many shoppers, it is an omission to our vegetable repertoire that is gradually being rectified.
The many ways to use celeriac
Never ones to shirk a kitchen challenge, however, the French became skilled at hacking their way through the knotted roots and convoluted rhino-thick exterior in order not to waste large chunks of good flesh. However, user-friendly varieties have come onto the market in recent years that are larger and smoother and much easier to peel.
If eating it part-cooked or blanched in a salad (raw celeriac is underwhelming), try adding celery salt to the vinaigrette or give the basic dressing of mayonnaise, cream and mustard a bit more zip with capers and/or gherkins.
A touch of orange zest can add some warmth to a velvety soup of celeriac and leek or fennel. Or, you could scatter with toasted hazelnuts or add a dollop of parsley-walnut pesto for interesting contrast. Think of celeriac as you would potatoes: serve deep-fried celeriac chips with mustard or garlic mayonnaise; roast chunks along with a joint of beef, pork or lamb; or boil or steam and mash them with plenty of butter for a purée.
Modern vegetarian cooks have welcomed the ability of celeriac to soak up flavors, which makes it excellent to roast in the oven; use in gratins or as a filling for pies and tarts; and mix with mushrooms (especially ceps), nuts, tomatoes or cheese. Dauphinoise made with celeriac and potato makes a wonderful combination, or try celeriac rosti for a change. It also carries well the pungency of fresh spices such as ginger, chili, coriander and black pepper.
The paler it is the fresher celeriac will be, but the thick knobbly skin will keep the interior smelling pleasingly of aniseed for quite a long time until used. At its best between September and April, celeriac should be saved from the compost heap. It may be a knob-head, but it deserves better.
- If you can’t use the celeriac once cut, drop the pieces into acidulated water to stop discoloration. Browning doesn’t affect the taste, but the color can look rather unappetizing.
- To store, refrigerate in an unsealed plastic bag. It will keep for several weeks.
- To cut celeriac safely, slice about a half-inch (1 centimeter) off the top and bottom with a sharp knife. Roll onto a flat edge and either cut off the skin (as you would a pineapple) or use a potato peeler. Expect to discard about a quarter of the celeriac by the time you have done this.
Celeriac and Celery Soup
Add a little orange zest or a handful of toasted hazelnuts for extra interest, if desired.
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 40 minutes
Total time: 60 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
4 tablespoon butter
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 leek, thinly sliced (don’t include the dark green part or it will spoil the look of the marble-white soup)
About 1 pound peeled and chopped celeriac
About 1 pound sliced celery (reserve a few leaves)
4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 dollop of heavy cream
Chopped parsley (optional)
1. Heat the butter in a saucepan and add the onion and leek. Cook gently for 10 minutes, then add the celeriac, celery and a little salt.
2. Cover and cook for another 10 minutes but don’t let the mixture brown. Add the stock, bring to a boil and simmer until the vegetables are tender (about 15 minutes).
3. Purée the soup, then reheat gently. Add the cream and season with salt and white pepper to taste. Adorn with a few reserved celery leaves and/or parsley.
Celeriac Remoulade (French Slaw)
Adjust the proportions of the dressing to your own taste; some like a piquant taste, others prefer just a hint of mustard.
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 10 minutes
Total time: 30 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
1 medium celeriac
Juice of 1 lemon
3 to 4 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2/3 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon heavy cream or crème frâiche
1 to 2 tablespoons capers (optional)
Salt and black pepper
1. Peel the celeriac; either grate to a medium size or cut into matchsticks. Plunge into a pan of boiling water, then drain and cool.
2. Mix the rest of the ingredients in a serving bowls. Season to taste and mix in the celeriac.
Celeriac and Potato Gratin
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cook time: 1 hour, 30 minutes
Total time: 2 hours
Yield: 6 servings
1 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup whole milk
2 garlic cloves, crushed
Salt and black pepper
About 15 ounces peeled potatoes, cut into thin slices
About 15 ounces peeled celeriac, cut into thin slices about the same size as the potatoes
2 to 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1. Put the cream, milk and garlic in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
2. Arrange the potatoes and celeriac in overlapping layers in a gratin dish. Cover it with the cream mixture, tipping the dish to get an even distribution.
3. Cover with foil and bake for about an hour or until the vegetables are tender. Tip: While the dish is baking, use a spatula to press the vegetables into the cream once or twice so they don’t dry out.
4. Remove the foil, sprinkle with the Parmesan and bake for another 10 minutes until the top is nicely browned.
Main photo: Celeriac is a knobby, bulbous root vegetable. Credit: Clarissa Hyman