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Cookies For Breakfast, What’s Not To Love?

The breakfast table at Il Frantoio. Credit: Martha Rose Shulman

The breakfast table at Il Frantoio. Credit: Martha Rose Shulman

Imagine being 7 years old and being offered an array of cookies and cakes for breakfast every morning. For my son Liam, that was one of the highlights of accompanying me on a six-week long research trip through the European Mediterranean the summer after he finished first grade. I also took my best friend’s 20-year old daughter Rachel, Liam’s beloved babysitter, so he would have somebody to play with. Nonetheless, it was sometimes not very much fun for him to be dragged from one place to another just so his mom could find and eat great food. Liam has always loved great food too, but constant traveling can be hard for a 7-year-old.

It was all worth it for him, though, when we arrived at Il Frantoio, an old olive oil farm that is also an azienda agrituristica, or farmhouse hotel, in the southern Italian region of Apulia. Il Frantoio is one of the most beautiful places on earth. Every room in the elegant house has been lovingly restored by the owners, Rosalba and Armando Ciannamea. Wherever your eye turns, it falls on something pleasing to see. Olive groves, some of them more than 500 years old, with beautiful, huge trees, stretch for miles within the whitewashed walls of the property. Armando produces several different olive oils, and the farm also produces wheat, fruit and vegetables, everything organic.

Rosalba is a passionate cook who has become locally well known for the multicourse feasts that she makes twice a week, using ingredients from the farm. Guests sit outside under the stars in warm weather, the oleander blossoms gently dropping, as they work their way through seven to 13 courses, while Armando goes from table to table to talk about the food and pour a different wine with each course.

The beauty of the place and the unforgettable dinners may or may not have been lost on Liam. What he will always remember about Il Frantoio is that they served cookies for breakfast. Every morning, when you cross the quiet courtyard and enter the dining room, you encounter a lace-covered buffet with bowls of fruit from the farm’s orchards — plums and peaches, apricots and nectarines in summer, apples and pears in the late fall — and baked goods from the kitchen — several varieties of cookies and cakes, breads and pastries made with flour ground from Il Frantoio’s own heirloom wheat; homemade jams and honeys. Pitchers of fresh orange and grapefruit juice are covered with handmade lace doilies to protect them from flies. Needless to say, Liam woke up early every day and couldn’t wait to get to breakfast. He always went straight for the cookies.

Italian Butter Cookies with Anise and Lemon Zest

Makes about 4 dozen cookies

Ingredients

180 grams (6 ounces) unsalted butter, preferably French style such as Plugrà, at room temperature

125 grams (⅔ cup) sugar

55 grams (1 large) egg

1 teaspoon finely chopped lemon zest

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 teaspoons aniseeds, crushed in a mortar and pestle

275 grams (2¼ cups) unbleached all-purpose flour

5 grams (1 rounded teaspoon) baking powder

1 gram (¼ teaspoon) salt

Directions

1. In a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter with the sugar until fluffy and pale, about 4 minutes. Scrape down the bowl and beaters. Add the egg, lemon zest, vanilla and aniseeds, and beat together.

2. Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. On low speed, beat into the butter mixture, just until combined. Gather the dough into a ball, then press down to a 1-inch thickness. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate overnight or for up to 3 days, or place in the freezer for 1 to 2 hours. Alternatively (if you don’t want to roll out the dough), remove spoonfuls of half of the dough and plop them down the middle of a piece of parchment paper to create a log about 2 inches in diameter. Fold the parchment up around the log to and refrigerate for 2 hours or longer. Repeat with the remaining dough.

3. Preheat the oven to 350 F with the rack adjusted to the lowest setting. Line baking sheets with parchment.

4. Cut the dough into 2 or 4 pieces, and roll out one piece at a time on a lightly dusted work surface, or preferably on a Silpat, to about ¼-inch thick. Cut into circles or shapes, dipping the cutter into flour between each cut, and place 1 inch apart on the baking sheet. Keep the remaining pieces of dough in the refrigerator or freezer.

5. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, turning the baking sheets front to back halfway through. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack.

Note: You can brush the cookies before baking with a little egg wash if you want them to look shiny.

Chocolate Walnut Biscotti

Makes about 4 dozen biscotti

Ingredients

125 grams (1 cup, approximately) unbleached all purpose flour

120 grams (approximately 1 cup, tightly packed) almond flour

60 grams (approximately ½ cup) unsweetened cocoa

10 grams (2 teaspoons) instant espresso powder or coffee extract

10 grams (2 teaspoons) baking powder

4 grams (1/2 teaspoon) salt

55 grams (2 ounces) unsalted butter

150 grams (approximately ¾ cup, tightly packed) brown sugar, preferably organic

110 grams (2 large) eggs

10 grams (2 teaspoons) vanilla extract

100 grams (1 cup) walnuts, chopped

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 300 F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment. In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, almond flour, cocoa, instant espresso powder if using, baking powder and salt.

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar for 2 minutes on medium speed. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the beater with a rubber spatula and add the eggs, coffee extract if using and vanilla extract. Beat together for 1 to 2 minutes, until well blended. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the beater. Add the flour mixture and beat at low speed until well blended. Add the walnuts and beat at low speed until mixed evenly through the dough. The dough will be moist and sticky.

3. Divide the dough in two and shape 2 wide, flat logs, about 10 to 12 inches long by 2 ½ inches wide. The logs may spread while you bake, so it’s best to place them on two parchment-covered sheets. Place in the oven on the middle rack and bake 40 to 45 minutes, until dry, beginning to crack in the middle, and firm. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 20 minutes or longer.

4. Place the logs on a baking sheet and carefully cut into ½-inch thick slices. Place on two parchment-covered baking sheets and bake one sheet at a time in the middle of the oven until the slices are dry, 30 to 35 minutes, flipping the biscotti over after 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Top photo: The breakfast table at  Il Frantoio. Credit: Martha Rose Shulman



Zester Daily contributor Martha Rose Shulman is the award-winning author of more than 25 cookbooks, including "The Very Best of Recipes for Health" and "The Simple Art of Vegetarian Cooking," both published by Rodale. She also joined Jacquy Pfeiffer in winning a 2014 James Beard Award for "The Art of French Pastry."

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