Sorbet’s Magic Ingredient: Rhubarb Compote

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in: Desserts w/recipe

Rhubarb compote sorbet. Credit: Caroline J. Beck

There is no good reason to be afraid of vegetables, but for a long time I was scared of rhubarb. Probably because my mother would remind me every spring that the leaves are poisonous and I shouldn’t touch them. But my six older brothers and sisters would eagerly wolf down rhubarb compote or rhubarb strawberry crumble, and my competitive nature eventually forced me to face that fear and get my fair share. Now, when it’s full-blown rhubarb season, I can concentrate on little else.

Rhubarb is a curious, somewhat misunderstood plant. It is particularly sour or bitter in its natural state, a taste profile that typically signals dangerous foods (according to the USDA, eating 11 pounds of the leaves could kill you).  Its stalks are various shades of green and red, slender or thick, hidden by an overarching canopy of those leaves.  Despite its natural shortcomings, rhubarb has been a  staple on many a farm table for years, whether sweetened with healthy amounts of sugar for compote, or pickled and canned for year-round flavor.

It was even reclassified by a New York court in 1947 as a fruit, perhaps in an effort to curry more favor with the public, but certainly to change its taxation status. These days, rhubarb’s devotees look for new  opportunities to show off its tangy flavor. This year, I decided to throw a fresh batch of rhubarb compote into the gelato maker and hope for the best.

The beauty of rhubarb compote is that its flavor complexity comes from  simple ingredients. At the heart of any recipe, sugar is about the only addition you need. But, why stop there? Strawberries are a classic partner, adding natural sweetness and a more appealing shade of red. I frequently include a squeeze of lemon or orange juice and zest to brighten the flavor, and add vanilla extract or vanilla bean to soften and round out the sweet-tart composition. As a finishing crescendo, a bit of beet powder naturally enhances the color and chases away the usual green-gray undertone. At this point, the compote will disappear by the bowlful.

After spending the last few months studying gelato and sorbet recipes, I discovered that the creamy smooth texture of cooked rhubarb could be the magic ingredient for a fat-free, flavorful sorbet. I started by blending the compote into a ribbony silk custard and adding airy volume with my trusty Vitamix 750 (still my new BFF in the kitchen) before transferring it to the ice cream maker. Halfway through processing, I threw in some diced candied ginger for a hint of peppery spice. Will it replace vanilla as the overwhelmingly most popular ice cream flavor in the U.S.? Doubtful, but I’ll keep tinkering with it all the same.

Rhubarb Sorbet With Candied Ginger

Makes 10 cups

Ingredients

2 cups water

½ cup lemon juice

½ cup orange juice

2 cups sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon kosher salt

10 cups rhubarb, cubed (approximately 3 pounds)

3 cups strawberries, hulled and rough cut

Zest of one orange and one lemon each

1 tablespoon of beet powder (optional)

⅛ cup finely diced, candied ginger (optional)

Directions

1. Add first six ingredients to a 6- to 7-quart stockpot or Dutch oven and stir over medium high heat until dissolved.

2. Add rhubarb, strawberries and zest to the pot. Stir to incorporate and bring to boil before reducing heat to medium for a healthy simmer. The mixture will reach a cooking temperature of between 200 to 208 F. Total cooking time should be approximately 30 minutes until the compote is thick and syrupy.

3. Remove from heat and stir in beet powder for color (optional).

4. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours until completely cool.

5. Processing in 2-cup batches (or whatever size best suits your ice cream maker),  place compote in blender and process at highest speed for one minute. Transfer to ice cream maker and process according to manufacturer’s directions.

6. If you are adding the optional candied diced ginger, follow the ice cream maker instructions. Typically, the “add-ons” are not mixed in until the last 10 minutes of processing time.

7. Sorbet usually requires additional freezer time to set up more firmly. If it is not consumed right away and has been solidly frozen, allow 10 to 12 minutes resting time from freezer before serving.

Notes

Compote can be frozen in any batch size and stored before defrosting and processing.

Top photo: Rhubarb compote sorbet. Credit: Caroline J. Beck


Zester Daily contributor Caroline J. Beck is a freelance food and wine writer and a strategic adviser to specialty food startups. Her articles and columns have appeared in such publications as the Santa Ynez Valley Journal, Michigan BLUE -- Michigan's Lakestyle Magazine, and The Olive Oil Source, the world's top-ranked olive oil-related website, where she has served as editor since 2007. Beck's website, www.carolinejbeck.com, provides common sense advice for enthusiastic entrepreneurs looking to succeed in the specialty foods business.

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Comments

Elise
on: 6/22/13
What an ingenious idea! I've never had anything rhubarb but rhubarb pie. This sounds just as delicious and a lot healthier. I noticed the ad at the top of the page for Popsicle forms. Could you put the sorbet into Popsicle forms and serve as rhubarb pops? Possibly the newest , most delicious treat that kids would love and not realize they were getting their veggies in their treat! ;-)
Caroline J. Beck
on: 6/23/13
Elise - Thanks for your comment and question. I've tried using Popsicle forms for smoothies (including those with hidden vegetables you suggested), so it would be worth a try. Sorbet, of course, is softer than ice when frozen so it might not hold up as well but If you want to test it, write back and let us know the results. Best of luck!

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