I can be finicky when it comes to the world’s most finicky grape, pinot noir. Too many California winemakers, even in top areas, seem to have a fatal attraction for producing big, oaky pinots for cabernet lovers. But that's not the case with the classic 2009 Tudal Winery Pinot Noir from the Bacigalupi Vineyard in Sonoma's Russian River Valley. It shows off much of what makes pinot fans embrace the grape: dark black cherry and rhubarb aromas, bright red fruit flavors with a touch of earth and minerals, and a full-bodied soft texture that makes you keep drinking.

The Russian River Valley has been prime pinot territory for decades, thanks to Pacific fog and cool temperatures, and 2009 was an excellent vintage. But there are huge climate differences across the sprawling 126,000-acre appellation. The Bacigalupi vineyard is in a warmer part of the valley, which gives wines that are richer, riper, softer. The family started planting pinot noir in 1964 and has supplied grapes to some of the county’s best pinot makers.

The Tudal family, on the other hand, has been growing grapes and making wine in the Napa Valley from some of the older cabernet vines in California for four generations. This year they opened a second winery, Cerruti Cellars, in hip, downtown Oakland, joining the 20-plus urban wineries in the East Bay.

The Tudal Winery Bacigalupi Pinot Noir is part of their Vineyard Series, made by well-known winemaker Kirk Venge, who became their consultant in 2009. Despite his cabernet background, he has a surprisingly light touch with pinot.

The winery's product description calls this wine "Burgundian-style." It's really much more Californian, about soft ripe fruit rather than delicacy and finesse. It's worth remembering there's more than one good style of pinot noir. As long as one has seductive texture and balance, like this one, it won't last long in my house.

Zester Daily contributor Elin McCoy is a wine and spirits columnist and author of "The Emperor of Wine: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr. and the Reign of American Taste."

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