The Icelandic Food Scene Goes Beyond Rotten Shark

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in: Travel

“Is it a cookbook about rotten shark?” I’ve received this question more than once when people find out I’m writing a cookbook about Icelandic cuisine. But contemporary Icelandic food has nothing to do with putrefied shark or any of the other pickled animal unmentionables so closely associated with this island nation. Today, Icelandic cuisine is about fresh ingredients sourced from one of the most pristine environments on the planet and chefs who are cleverly transforming them into dishes worthy of the global stage.

I’ve visited Iceland more than 25 times in the past several years. My first trip was on the cusp of the Icelandic economic collapse in 2008, one of the worst financial disasters in world history. If a catastrophe like that could have a silver lining, it was that chefs who once eschewed local products in favor of expensive foreign imports were forced to source closer to home. What they discovered was renewed pride in natural resources, deserving of attention as much as foie gras from Paris or prosciutto from Italy.

Iceland heats its greenhouses using 100% sustainable geothermal energy, sources its fish from immaculate waters, and procures the majority of its meat from free-range animals that spend their lives eating grasses free of fertilizer and pesticide. The benefits of all that reflect in its products.

A burgeoning Icelandic food artisanal movement

Another upside to the economic crisis was the awakening of artisanal food and beverage pioneers who have infused Icelandic staples such as bread, beer, salt, tea and cheese with newfound creativity. There’s Saltverk, the only artisan salt produced entirely from geothermal energy, and Modir Jord, an organic barley company whose owner, farmer Eymundur Magnússon, has almost single-handedly preserved the ancient practice of Icelandic barley production.

Another champion of preserving protecting Icelandic traditions is Johanna Thorvaldsdottir, a woman who saved the Icelandic goat, a unique species on the planet, from extinction. Through her tireless efforts, Thorvaldsdottir is returning to her nation products such as goat cheese, sausage, milk, butter and ice cream that were once on the verge of disappearing.

Beer is another Icelandic product undergoing a transformation. Prohibition of alcohol was in full effect in Iceland until the 1990s. When beer was finally made available, it emerged in the form of fairly generic pilsners and ales. Today, craft beer companies such as Einstock are transforming the once-lackluster beer industry. Considering that the beer is produced 60 miles south of the Arctic Circle from some of the planet’s most pristine water, it’s clear why brews such as their white ale with hints of orange and cardamom are so palatable.

Spirits are also in the midst of a makeover in Iceland. Staples such as vodka and schnapps are being reworked into ambrosial specialties such as Foss Distillery’s liqueur and schnapps infused with birch, Iceland’s national tree.

Preserving traditions

One might assume that a nation undergoing something of a culinary renaissance would discard its traditional ingredients in favor of innovation. That is not the case. Contemporary Icelandic chefs such as Gunnar Karl Gislason strive to preserve ancient Icelandic ingredients such as bacalao, smoked Arctic char, skyr and smoked lamb by fostering deep and lasting relationships with producers who might otherwise disappear without the support of chefs like him. Gislason is a master at transforming these traditional ingredients into their more contemporary version at his restaurants Dill and Kex. Other restaurants in Reykjavik adeptly celebrating Iceland’s natural resources are Icelandic Fish & Chips  and Slipbarrin in the Marina Hotel, a fun, centrally located place to stay when exploring Reykjavik’s culinary scene.

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The cuisine of Dill in Reykjavik. Credit: Sandeep Patwal

Another way to experience the food culture of Iceland is to sign up for a cooking class at Salt Eldhus in Reykjavik. In a well-stocked and beautifully designed classroom, owner Tilefni Audur Ogn and a revolving roster of local and international guest chef instructors explore traditional and contemporary Icelandic cooking as well as cuisines more further afield.

Touring the Icelandic food scene

Another way for travelers to immerse themselves in Iceland’s thriving food scene is by taking culinary tours. The adventurous who journey to the top of the world to explore this nation will be rewarded with a view of the extraordinary pioneering spirit ushering in a new era in Iceland’s culinary history. Of course, if you absolutely must try the putrefied shark, it’s also waiting there for you.

Top photo: Icelandic butter and pickled herring. Credit: Sandeep Patwal

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Note: Zester contributor Jody Eddy will be teaching a summer class at Reykjavik’s Salt Eldhus from her  cookbook “Come In, We’re Closed: An Invitation to Staff Meals at the World’s Best Restaurants,” and she will be leading a culinary tour in August 2013 with Kjartan Gislason.


Zester Daily contributor Jody Eddy is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education in Manhattan and former executive editor of Art Culinaire magazine. She cooked at restaurants in America and Europe including Jean Georges, Tabla and The Fat Duck in Bray, England. Her cookbook "Come In, We're Closed: An Invitation to Staff Meals at the World's Best Restaurants" was published in late 2012, and she also wrote a cookbook with Icelandic chef Gunnar Karl Gislason called "North: The New Nordic Cuisine of Iceland," that will be published in September 2014.

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Comments

Jae
on: 6/20/13
Don't forget to try the whale ...
Johan MacDonald
on: 9/30/13
Another culinary location along the same lines as the above article is the Faroe Islands, located just a short distance east of Iceland (app.1,5 hours by plane as the crow flies) They are experiencing a similar culinary renaisance, due to the excellent raw materials freely available to thechefs, who are coming from far and wide. Mac
Stefán
on: 10/1/13
Just to point out "Tilefni" is not a name but means occasion\party\honor in Icelandic and I did enjoy your article very much.Thank you.
Per
on: 10/6/13
"Prohibition of alcohol was in full effect in Iceland until the 1990s"? Not so. Beer was prohibited until 1989, but hard liquor and wine was always available. Great article, very informative. Thanks.
Jody
on: 10/6/13
Stefan-Thank you for your comment. Tilefni is also the first name of the owner of Salt Eldhus.

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